UKC

Restricted Access

A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.

From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May.  It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!

 

May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left. 

Rockfax Description
If you are an ambitious VS climber then this is arguably better than the original. With 60m ropes, it can be done in one long and tremendous pitch.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the groove to the overhangs and continue until it gets difficult. The original goes right, instead climb straight up a steep groove to an overhanging groove. Left is an undercut hand-jamming flake leading out left. Undercut this to a side-pull and make an exciting move left to a jug that leads to better holds and easier ground. Move up and right to rejoin Creagh Dhu Wall. A little higher, belay at a hollow block. If you have managed the ropes well you can link into the next pitch.
2) 4c, 20m. From the hollow block, go boldly up the easy-angled groove above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This climb goes to the left of craig dhu wall up a large sloping left crackline. 2 overhangs on the left. Above the first overhang move out left smearing and holding on to the undercuts as you traverse left to a slanting crack and safety. Crux can be easily protected. The second pitch is interesting and moves over 2 overlaps to the top. A tree on the left can be used to abseil down with sling & link in situ.

Simon & Ray 29/Sep/2007.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , North Wales Jam and Wide Cracks , Consolidation VS-HVS , Routes for MCI , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rustynutz 7 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climbing. Picked the route because our friend features in the new Roxfax pic! Went direct which was committing for the grade but great holds. Could defo do in a oner next time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climbing. Picked the route because our friend features in the new Roxfax pic! Went direct which was committing for the grade but great holds. Could defo do in a oner next time.
pete johnson 19 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: More like 50m than 44m as in CC guide.
Show beta
βeta: More like 50m than 44m as in CC guide.

Logged Ascents

274 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 70 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flake Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet))

Loading Notifications...