Rockfax Description
A route that combines the best bits of two routes into a stunning E1. Pitch 1 is technical and balancy and pitch 2 is totally out there. Start at a rib that is the toe of the central slab.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the rib to a good ledge and arrange gear in the overhang. A technical sequence over this leads to delicate climbing up the slab above. Trend right to gain the airy arete. Belay on the ledge as for Tensor.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb up and right to a groove. Climb this, and the rib, until level with the wall on the left. Step left to clip a peg - wires back this up - before making a committing pull out left to gain a jug on the arete. Move up the arete briefly, then make a delicate and airy traverse left to a ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. As for P3 of Tensor. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Combination that goes up the cliff at E1 (or HVS if that's what you think the hardest bit is worth)
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))