UKC

Rockfax Description
A route that combines the best bits of two routes into a stunning E1. Pitch 1 is technical and balancy and pitch 2 is totally out there. Start at a rib that is the toe of the central slab.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the rib to a good ledge and arrange gear in the overhang. A technical sequence over this leads to delicate climbing up the slab above. Trend right to gain the airy arete. Belay on the ledge as for Tensor.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb up and right to a groove. Climb this, and the rib, until level with the wall on the left. Step left to clip a peg - wires back this up - before making a committing pull out left to gain a jug on the arete. Move up the arete briefly, then make a delicate and airy traverse left to a ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. As for P3 of Tensor. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Combination that goes up the cliff at E1 (or HVS if that's what you think the hardest bit is worth)

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Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Groove

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))

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