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A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.

From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May.  It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!


May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left. 

Rockfax Description
A route that combines the best bits of two routes into a stunning E1. Pitch 1 is technical and balancy and pitch 2 is totally out there. Start at a rib that is the toe of the central slab.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the rib to a good ledge and arrange gear in the overhang. A technical sequence over this leads to delicate climbing up the slab above. Trend right to gain the airy arete. Belay on the ledge as for Tensor.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb up and right to a groove. Climb this, and the rib, until level with the wall on the left. Step left to clip a peg - wires back this up - before making a committing pull out left to gain a jug on the arete. Move up the arete briefly, then make a delicate and airy traverse left to a ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. As for P3 of Tensor. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Combination that goes up the cliff at E1 (or HVS if that's what you think the hardest bit is worth)


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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Looning the Tube

Grade: E1 5a ***

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