UKC

Restricted Access

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years. 

The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving. 

The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.  

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not  formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.  
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
  • Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below)

 

38m. A fantastic sustained pitch with brilliant climbing and even better run-outs. Start up Manhattan to the second peg, clip the overhead bolt and proceed. Head straight up the impending wall to a flat hand ledge, lurch right on crimps and utilise a tiny flowstone pinch to gain pockets above (good cam). Further thin moves lead to a rest in a niche (hand-placed thread). Pull up into the groove on the left and follow this to it's termination, arrange you final gear and set your sights on the top.

Strenuous and blind crimping leads to a good flatty (poor and hard to place RP) and a place to contemplate the final hard moves. Move delicately on small, rounded edges to a final heart-in-mouth stab for jugs. mantle it out and finish up the wall and thin crack above.

FA. Alex Mason 25/May/2015.

Ticklists

100 Worthwhile E7's , Best of Forwyn

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ed Booth 14 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Would be a perfect route to flash with a up to date trad head , and some current sport fitness .would be hard to on sight because at the top it is quite eliminate to stay off the holds of sangfroid (climbs well though and makes sense once you have done the sequence). *Beta* from the LH 2 finger side pull pocket, straight up to crimp with right, and then up left and left again to better edge*
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would be a perfect route to flash with a up to date trad head , and some current sport fitness .would be hard to on sight because at the top it is quite eliminate to stay off the holds of sangfroid (climbs well though and makes sense once you have done the sequence). *Beta* from the LH 2 finger side pull pocket, straight up to crimp with right, and then up left and left again to better edge*
tintinandpip 2 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant, two distinct cruxes separated by a good rest, potential for a sensational fall off either crux should things go wrong.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant, two distinct cruxes separated by a good rest, potential for a sensational fall off either crux should things go wrong.

Logged Ascents

16 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig y Forwyn

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 5 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crisis in Utopia

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Craig Pont-y-Pant)

Loading Notifications...