38m. A fantastic sustained pitch with brilliant climbing and even better run-outs. Start up Manhattan to the second peg, clip the overhead bolt and proceed. Head straight up the impending wall to a flat hand ledge, lurch right on crimps and utilise a tiny flowstone pinch to gain pockets above (good cam). Further thin moves lead to a rest in a niche (hand-placed thread). Pull up into the groove on the left and follow this to it's termination, arrange you final gear and set your sights on the top.

Strenuous and blind crimping leads to a good flatty (poor and hard to place RP) and a place to contemplate the final hard moves. Move delicately on small, rounded edges to a final heart-in-mouth stab for jugs. mantle it out and finish up the wall and thin crack above.

FA. Alex Mason 25/May/2015.


100 Worthwhile E7's , Best of Forwyn


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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crisis in Utopia

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Craig Pont-y-Pant)

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