UKC

38m. A fantastic sustained pitch with brilliant climbing and even better run-outs. Start up Manhattan to the second peg, clip the overhead bolt and proceed. Head straight up the impending wall to a flat hand ledge, lurch right on crimps and utilise a tiny flowstone pinch to gain pockets above (good cam). Further thin moves lead to a rest in a niche (hand-placed thread). Pull up into the groove on the left and follow this to it's termination, arrange you final gear and set your sights on the top.

Strenuous and blind crimping leads to a good flatty (poor and hard to place RP) and a place to contemplate the final hard moves. Move delicately on small, rounded edges to a final heart-in-mouth stab for jugs. mantle it out and finish up the wall and thin crack above.

FA. Alex Mason 25/May/2015.

Ticklists

100 Worthwhile E7's , Best of Forwyn

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crisis in Utopia

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Craig Pont-y-Pant)

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