UKC

Restricted Access

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years. 

The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving. 

The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.  

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not  formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.  
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
  • Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below)

 

35m. Start up Manhattan, pass the bolt to a flat hand shelf (as for Katie's Delight), a hard move up and left gains two undercuts then a horizontal crack above. Step right and up to a good hold on the right edge of a broad white stripe on the rock. A high step to a distant edge allows a chin grinding rock-over to the juggy break (crux). Trend up and right to join Katie's Delight at the easy groove. Finish up the stunning headwall as for Katie's Delight.
Little new climbing but finds a way up the wall that Manhattan avoids. A superb companion route to Katie's Delight.

FA. Mick Lovatt 23/Jun/2019.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pegbolter 1 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Probably the least blinkered way (link) up this wall. Better approached using the Manhattan Direct start. NB: There are supposedly 5 independent routes on a wall about 4m wide (at the top). Take from that what you will.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably the least blinkered way (link) up this wall. Better approached using the Manhattan Direct start. NB: There are supposedly 5 independent routes on a wall about 4m wide (at the top). Take from that what you will.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig y Forwyn

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 3 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 6
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crisis in Utopia

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Craig Pont-y-Pant)

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