UKC

Restricted Access

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years. 

The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving. 

The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.  

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not  formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.  
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
  • Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below)

 

32m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

FA. Andy Pollitt 02/Jun/1982.

Ticklists

Best of Forwyn , Great Wall Climbs of the UK

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ramon Marin 24 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: blocks at the top out are pretty loose
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: blocks at the top out are pretty loose
Katiek 25 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really love the sequences in this. Got it clean second go on top rope and repeated it a third time to get everything dialled. Keen to come back for the lead before I forget it all. Gear is just about on my limit of acceptable I think. Crossing to the bolt will pretty scary!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really love the sequences in this. Got it clean second go on top rope and repeated it a third time to get everything dialled. Keen to come back for the lead before I forget it all. Gear is just about on my limit of acceptable I think. Crossing to the bolt will pretty scary!
Alex Mason 11 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The bolt is back in and there to stay. Safe and exciting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bolt is back in and there to stay. Safe and exciting.
spidey 14 Jul, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: Headpoint after chopping the bolt. E7/8. Using a Skyhook to help the head!!
Show beta
βeta: Headpoint after chopping the bolt. E7/8. Using a Skyhook to help the head!!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig y Forwyn

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 6
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Plas Berw - No Plas Like Home - Zippy Chicken Finish

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Castell y Gwynt)

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