UKC

Restricted Access

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years. 

The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving. 

The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.  

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not  formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.  
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
  • Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below)

 

33m, 2 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Quality route, thanks to the team that have cleaned this up (looks dire in the topo of the 2014 guide) and many other routes here. It has a double peg (gulled in?) lower off, would be easy enough to top out though. Personally I think either do a proper job and put a bolted lower off or don't bother. Threads currently look in excellent condition. New lower grade E2 5c seems spot on, may even be worth a 3rd star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quality route, thanks to the team that have cleaned this up (looks dire in the topo of the 2014 guide) and many other routes here. It has a double peg (gulled in?) lower off, would be easy enough to top out though. Personally I think either do a proper job and put a bolted lower off or don't bother. Threads currently look in excellent condition. New lower grade E2 5c seems spot on, may even be worth a 3rd star.
Dave Rudkin 6 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This is best as a single pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is best as a single pitch
dinodinosaur 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Recently cleaned with new threads, more like E2 5c
Show beta
βeta: Recently cleaned with new threads, more like E2 5c

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig y Forwyn

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 27
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
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Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
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Route of Interest
Excursion

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Pen Trwyn)

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