Restricted Access
The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn has had a long and troubled past- it wasn't long ago that there was no access and climbing was totally banned. Now thanks to the efforts of Volunteers and Officers the situation has improved and the situation is better than its been for years.
The Behaviour of climbers when visiting the crag is crucial to this situation continuing and improving.
The ownership of the crag varies along its length and more information can be found below, however its safe to assume that climbing is tolerated and is NOT a right. If you climb here, please do so quietly and inconspicuously as possible.
- CENTRAL SECTION- (Great Wall, etc.) From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze. There are new owners and negotiations are underway. While some low level climbing activity appears to be ongoing without any objection, the landowners are very clear that they do not formally give permisson for climbing here and any issues will put a stop to any long term solutions to allow climbing.
- RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, the occupiers of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2019) . The new occupiers of this section have told the BMC that they will not object to climbers on this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum. Tthere is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the whole cliff is an SSSI it would be illegal to do without formal consent from NRW.
- LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
- Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.
- Do not park below the crag - access should only be form the agreed parking area above the crag. Follow access instructions in the current editon of North Wales Limestone guidebook (or see below).
32m, 2 pitches.
Shares the first and last few metres of The Groan with airy, strenuous climbing and good protection where it matters. The first pitch also allows safe access to the excellent top pitch of Panorama just above and slightly left of the midway stance.
P1 5c Climb The Groan to its first in situ thread. With your feet by this reach out left from good jams to finger jugs leading out left and up to obvious jugs below the steep hanging groove (good angle peg). A few airy and determined moves lead up this past a couple of threads. Gain cleaned ledges and move carefully up and right to belay (good threads up and right).
P2 6a Step off the spooky block on the left to climb the pocketed crack to a bulge (good small wires just to the right here). A tricky sequence up and left gains a peg then a final few pumpy moves gain the final few moves of The Groan to finish.
P1 5c Climb The Groan to its first in situ thread. With your feet by this reach out left from good jams to finger jugs leading out left and up to obvious jugs below the steep hanging groove (good angle peg). A few airy and determined moves lead up this past a couple of threads. Gain cleaned ledges and move carefully up and right to belay (good threads up and right).
P2 6a Step off the spooky block on the left to climb the pocketed crack to a bulge (good small wires just to the right here). A tricky sequence up and left gains a peg then a final few pumpy moves gain the final few moves of The Groan to finish.
Tim Neill, Keith Ball 02/Nov/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dan Hale | 20 Jun |
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βeta: Greased off top of first pitch and the peg ripped | βeta? | |
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βeta: Greased off top of first pitch and the peg ripped |
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| Andy Moles | 16 Jun |
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βeta: Loads of smashed glass on the ledge at present, take care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loads of smashed glass on the ledge at present, take care. |
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Guidebooks for Craig y Forwyn
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Route of Interest
The Snake
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Craig y Forwyn)