One of the great Welsh mountain routes. It takes a superb line across the buttress, finishing in a glorious position on the upper 'outside edge'. Start below a block overhang towards the left of the face.
1) 18m. Climb rightwards up a groove below the block. Move right around it and up to a stance on the top.
2) 35m. A thin pull gains a ledge, then make a rising traverse up left to the arete. Climb this to a small ledge (possible belay) and then head direct on good holds to the right-hand end of Sunset Ledge.
3) 12m. Move your belay 6m to the left. Traverse left around some ribs to gain a groove. Climb this to a ledge and belay.
4) 25m. Climb up and left to a corner-crack. Gain this by a tricky move, then follow the corner before moving left onto the rib and up to a belay ledge.
5) 20m. Easy climbing up a rib gains the escape path, follow this around to the left, or..
6) 20m. Climb a short groove with a projecting block in it to gain the top of the ridge and great views all around. © Rockfax
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , North wales road to ruins HVS , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Long Routes , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy
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