UKC

Rockfax Description
The straight left edge of the rib gives strenuous climbing in a splendid position. Start by a corner just to the right of the arete. Climb the corner with difficulty to a ledge. Go up a wall on the left to reach the arete. This is followed in a bold and wild position to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The perfectly straight left edge of the left hand rib gives strenuous climbing in a splendid position.
A variation start traverses in along a diagonal crack from the start of Bing the Budgie. (HVS 5a)

JR Lees, DW Walker 09/Jul/1961.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Cuthbert 26 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Ludicrously undergraded and spooky route. The start is not only brutal, the shallowish placement of the last runner before the thin pull and techy move out to the right to jugs (more 5c than 5b, and wildy harder than 5a!) suggests a significant greater than zero probability of a bad outcome. Maybe this is what the modern trad climber wants, but to me facing and hoping to enjoy a well earned dotage, (tho the local guidebook now sports an E1 rating), i'd rather not suffer the impoverished descriptions and recklessly stupid ratings of the guidebook and UKC authors. closer to E1-E2 5c rating for me.
Show beta
βeta: Ludicrously undergraded and spooky route. The start is not only brutal, the shallowish placement of the last runner before the thin pull and techy move out to the right to jugs (more 5c than 5b, and wildy harder than 5a!) suggests a significant greater than zero probability of a bad outcome. Maybe this is what the modern trad climber wants, but to me facing and hoping to enjoy a well earned dotage, (tho the local guidebook now sports an E1 rating), i'd rather not suffer the impoverished descriptions and recklessly stupid ratings of the guidebook and UKC authors. closer to E1-E2 5c rating for me.

Logged Ascents

104 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Yr Wrysgan

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 16
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Corner

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

Loading Notifications...