Rockfax Description
The straight left edge of the rib gives strenuous climbing in a splendid position. Start by a corner just to the right of the arete. Climb the corner with difficulty to a ledge. Go up a wall on the left to reach the arete. This is followed in a bold and wild position to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The perfectly straight left edge of the left hand rib gives strenuous climbing in a splendid position.
A variation start traverses in along a diagonal crack from the start of Bing the Budgie. (HVS 5a)
JR Lees, DW Walker 09/Jul/1961.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
John Cuthbert | 26 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Ludicrously undergraded and spooky route. The start is not only brutal, the shallowish placement of the last runner before the thin pull and techy move out to the right to jugs (more 5c than 5b, and wildy harder than 5a!) suggests a significant greater than zero probability of a bad outcome. Maybe this is what the modern trad climber wants, but to me facing and hoping to enjoy a well earned dotage, (tho the local guidebook now sports an E1 rating), i'd rather not suffer the impoverished descriptions and recklessly stupid ratings of the guidebook and UKC authors. closer to E1-E2 5c rating for me. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Ludicrously undergraded and spooky route. The start is not only brutal, the shallowish placement of the last runner before the thin pull and techy move out to the right to jugs (more 5c than 5b, and wildy harder than 5a!) suggests a significant greater than zero probability of a bad outcome. Maybe this is what the modern trad climber wants, but to me facing and hoping to enjoy a well earned dotage, (tho the local guidebook now sports an E1 rating), i'd rather not suffer the impoverished descriptions and recklessly stupid ratings of the guidebook and UKC authors. closer to E1-E2 5c rating for me. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Tryfan)