UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good combination of pitches that makes the most of the best rock. Start below a recess down and just right of the white slab.
1) 4a, 35m. Move up into the recess and follow it up to a traverse left to gain the base of a slab. Move diagonally up right to a triangular niche at the bottom right of the white slab (possible belay). Step left and climb the bold white slab to the ledge known as Y Borfa (The Pasture).
2) 4b, 16m. Enter the stunning groove and climb it to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very worthwhile combination of contrasting pitches. Nicely sustained, with a well-positioned final pitch.

Ticklists

50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Ultimate HS ticklist, Solos

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete_Frost 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The start of the route as shown in the CC guide is is a short scramble above the "path", and if there ever was a large spike at the foot of this route, it has long gone. There is a spike at the base of Daufaen a few metres to the climbers left. Pitch 2 is almost devoid of protection, but small Tricams might work in pockets where even Totem Technical cams won't fit.
Show beta
βeta: The start of the route as shown in the CC guide is is a short scramble above the "path", and if there ever was a large spike at the foot of this route, it has long gone. There is a spike at the base of Daufaen a few metres to the climbers left. Pitch 2 is almost devoid of protection, but small Tricams might work in pockets where even Totem Technical cams won't fit.
jonzza 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: We almost ran out of rope for the first pitch using 60m halves. If you have shorter ropes you'll need to scramble over the overlap before you start belaying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We almost ran out of rope for the first pitch using 60m halves. If you have shorter ropes you'll need to scramble over the overlap before you start belaying.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 12
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Gem

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))
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