Rockfax Description
A stunning classic following an impressive line of cracks up the centre of this steep imposing wall. Climb the tough crack, past the tree stump, and jam onwards (optional stance out left in the Bower). Move out right and climb the wall on finger holds then a crack to a niche. Layback the crack on the left to the final overhang and finish with gusto. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Harding, Veronica Lee 1946.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Hard Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Hard Grit history , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , World Graded List , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 50 of the Best , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Cratcliffe HVS , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Hard Rock 2020 , World Class Britain & Ireland , Hard Rock 2020 , 2020/21 Trips , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 33 By 33 , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , The Eal List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dan Wright | 17 May |
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βeta: There are some jackdaws nesting just to the right of the big break - please try not to disturb them! Chicks will need their moma, not to mention jackdaws can be feisty little bastards! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There are some jackdaws nesting just to the right of the big break - please try not to disturb them! Chicks will need their moma, not to mention jackdaws can be feisty little bastards! |
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| mossywitt | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. Plenty of rest and plenty of gear, but tall for the Peak, a little overhanging, and with some committing moves. There are good holds for the top out if you look for them. Extend gear from the crack to the right above the second crux. | ||
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βeta: Fantastic route. Plenty of rest and plenty of gear, but tall for the Peak, a little overhanging, and with some committing moves. There are good holds for the top out if you look for them. Extend gear from the crack to the right above the second crux. |
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| DanDDJ | 18 Mar, 2020 |
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βeta: HVS 5b. Take largish cams as I had to run it out on the last jamming crack. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: HVS 5b. Take largish cams as I had to run it out on the last jamming crack. |
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| Fraser kid | 21 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: If you’re not used to operating comfortably in HVS- E1 range, this may feel committing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you’re not used to operating comfortably in HVS- E1 range, this may feel committing! |
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| GeorgiePorgie1 | 22 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Agree with the top end HVS comments and defo 5b technical. There are rests and gear is solid so not an E1, but then how many E1s and even E2s have you done where you can lace them with gear...Defo take a full rack and take extra care to extend all your gear in the breaks and traverse. Superb!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree with the top end HVS comments and defo 5b technical. There are rests and gear is solid so not an E1, but then how many E1s and even E2s have you done where you can lace them with gear...Defo take a full rack and take extra care to extend all your gear in the breaks and traverse. Superb!! |
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| cem | 10 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Tough for the grade but no more than HVS 5a. | ||
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βeta: Tough for the grade but no more than HVS 5a. |
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| MNA123 | 25 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Cracking route top end HVS cause there is good gear if you can hang on to place it! Climbed in two pitches and i managed to flash it on both leads, V. glad too reach the top tho, Great Route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cracking route top end HVS cause there is good gear if you can hang on to place it! Climbed in two pitches and i managed to flash it on both leads, V. glad too reach the top tho, Great Route! |
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| Jus | 27 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Did it in the rain, sleet and snow yesterday. My god it was a struggle. It just went on for ever! A bit wet in places too. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did it in the rain, sleet and snow yesterday. My god it was a struggle. It just went on for ever! A bit wet in places too. |
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| Si dH | 11 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: should say no reason to split it other than to have a rest. | βeta? | |
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βeta: should say no reason to split it other than to have a rest. |
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| Si dH | 11 Dec, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax have downgraded more routes around HVS than upgraded I reckon. I did it one long pitch, seemed no reason nto to other than to have a rest. Accordingly I got pumped silly and had to rest about 10 feet below the start of the top layback flake. The crux is only hard 5a I reckon if you can jam, but its still very very top end for the grade, and theres probably another 5a btit at the end of the traverse. Amsoutely awesome route though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax have downgraded more routes around HVS than upgraded I reckon. I did it one long pitch, seemed no reason nto to other than to have a rest. Accordingly I got pumped silly and had to rest about 10 feet below the start of the top layback flake. The crux is only hard 5a I reckon if you can jam, but its still very very top end for the grade, and theres probably another 5a btit at the end of the traverse. Amsoutely awesome route though. |
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| Alex Mason | 4 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: great route all i took was 6 cams biggest been a size 2 when i got to the big layback flake i had a friend 1 underneath it was a bit runout at this id say E1 definately | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: great route all i took was 6 cams biggest been a size 2 when i got to the big layback flake i had a friend 1 underneath it was a bit runout at this id say E1 definately |
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| jamiemoss | 30 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: VERY pumpy! There are rests, but they're either really uncomfotable or poor. Best climbed as on long pitch - take a lot of gear! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: VERY pumpy! There are rests, but they're either really uncomfotable or poor. Best climbed as on long pitch - take a lot of gear! |
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| The Pylon King | 23 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: good solid HVS 5b not too pumpy (after all there are rests) brilliant! | ||
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βeta: good solid HVS 5b not too pumpy (after all there are rests) brilliant! |
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| CragHead | 11 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Fantastic Route - Probably the best HVS in Peak. It is Very pumpy route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic Route - Probably the best HVS in Peak. It is Very pumpy route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Cratcliffe Tor
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Robin Hood's Cave Innominate/Harding's Finish
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage Popular)