Loading Notifications...
30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stunning classic following an impressive line of cracks up the steep wall. Climb the tough crack, past the tree stump, and jam onwards to an optional stance in the Bower. Move out right and climb the wall on finger holds then a crack to a niche. Layback the crack on the left to the final overhang and finish with gusto. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Harding, Veronica Lee 1946.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Hard Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 50 of the Best, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Cratcliffe HVS, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, On Peak Rock, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Hard Rock 2020, World Class Britain & Ireland, Hard Rock, 2020 Trips, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, So you think you’re a VS climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
mossywitt 23 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. Plenty of rest and plenty of gear, but tall for the Peak, a little overhanging, and with some committing moves. There are good holds for the top out if you look for them. Extend gear from the crack to the right above the second crux.
 
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. Plenty of rest and plenty of gear, but tall for the Peak, a little overhanging, and with some committing moves. There are good holds for the top out if you look for them. Extend gear from the crack to the right above the second crux.
DannyH001 18 Mar Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5b. Take largish cams as I had to run it out on the last jamming crack.
 
Show beta
βeta: HVS 5b. Take largish cams as I had to run it out on the last jamming crack.
Fraser kid 21 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: If you’re not used to operating comfortably in HVS- E1 range, this may feel committing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you’re not used to operating comfortably in HVS- E1 range, this may feel committing!
GeorgiePorgie1 22 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the top end HVS comments and defo 5b technical. There are rests and gear is solid so not an E1, but then how many E1s and even E2s have you done where you can lace them with gear...Defo take a full rack and take extra care to extend all your gear in the breaks and traverse. Superb!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with the top end HVS comments and defo 5b technical. There are rests and gear is solid so not an E1, but then how many E1s and even E2s have you done where you can lace them with gear...Defo take a full rack and take extra care to extend all your gear in the breaks and traverse. Superb!!
cem 10 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tough for the grade but no more than HVS 5a.
 
Show beta
βeta: Tough for the grade but no more than HVS 5a.
MNA123 25 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Cracking route top end HVS cause there is good gear if you can hang on to place it! Climbed in two pitches and i managed to flash it on both leads, V. glad too reach the top tho, Great Route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cracking route top end HVS cause there is good gear if you can hang on to place it! Climbed in two pitches and i managed to flash it on both leads, V. glad too reach the top tho, Great Route!
Jus 27 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did it in the rain, sleet and snow yesterday. My god it was a struggle. It just went on for ever! A bit wet in places too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did it in the rain, sleet and snow yesterday. My god it was a struggle. It just went on for ever! A bit wet in places too.
Si dH 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: should say no reason to split it other than to have a rest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: should say no reason to split it other than to have a rest.
Si dH 11 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax have downgraded more routes around HVS than upgraded I reckon. I did it one long pitch, seemed no reason nto to other than to have a rest. Accordingly I got pumped silly and had to rest about 10 feet below the start of the top layback flake. The crux is only hard 5a I reckon if you can jam, but its still very very top end for the grade, and theres probably another 5a btit at the end of the traverse. Amsoutely awesome route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax have downgraded more routes around HVS than upgraded I reckon. I did it one long pitch, seemed no reason nto to other than to have a rest. Accordingly I got pumped silly and had to rest about 10 feet below the start of the top layback flake. The crux is only hard 5a I reckon if you can jam, but its still very very top end for the grade, and theres probably another 5a btit at the end of the traverse. Amsoutely awesome route though.
Alex Mason 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: great route all i took was 6 cams biggest been a size 2 when i got to the big layback flake i had a friend 1 underneath it was a bit runout at this id say E1 definately
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great route all i took was 6 cams biggest been a size 2 when i got to the big layback flake i had a friend 1 underneath it was a bit runout at this id say E1 definately
jamiemoss 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: VERY pumpy! There are rests, but they're either really uncomfotable or poor. Best climbed as on long pitch - take a lot of gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: VERY pumpy! There are rests, but they're either really uncomfotable or poor. Best climbed as on long pitch - take a lot of gear!
Mark S Davies 23 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: good solid HVS 5b not too pumpy (after all there are rests) brilliant!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good solid HVS 5b not too pumpy (after all there are rests) brilliant!
CragHead 11 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic Route - Probably the best HVS in Peak. It is Very pumpy route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic Route - Probably the best HVS in Peak. It is Very pumpy route.

Logged Ascents

1147 users have logged this
232 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 244
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 230
Votes cast 211
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Sunset Slab

Grade: HVS 4b ***
(Froggatt Edge)