Rockfax Description
45m. A bold outing through the roof right of Bratach Uaine. Start just right of the waterfall at the foot of the wall. Climb an unprotected, left-slanting quartz seam to the ledge (worth E3 5b and the scene of several deck-outs). Move right to a groove. Climb this and step right onto the wall. Climb the wall veering left to reach for a schisty flange on the lip of the roof. Hand-traverse right to gain the block, then pull over and get onto a ledge. Climb diagonally leftwards into the middle of the wall to finish direct up a tongue of quartz. It is also possible to gain the block from directly below at the same grade.
FA D.Cuthbertson, R.Anderson, 6 Apr 1981 © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Highland Outcrops South *** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Bidean nam Bian)