UKC

Rockfax Description
40m. A superb, strenuous direct line up the right side of the black-streaked overhanging wall. Start at the short corner with a distinctive crack.
1. 25m 5c Climb the crack (avoiding the temptation to step off left), make a long reach for another crack and continue up black rock to reach the foot of an overhanging crack. Climb the overhanging crack to the belay ledge. An easier alternative for shorties is to step delicately right onto a hanging slab, move further right to join the normal route, then return left to the overhanging crack.
2. 15m 5b Climb a thin overhanging crack above and trend right to finish at a tree.
FA M.Hamilton, K.Spence, 1978 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Highland Outcrops South *** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Trad , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User Date Notes
CMcBain 11 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Worth every star, would be a contender for Scotland’s best single pitch E2 if it didn’t have a ledge at 2/3rds. Do as a single pitch for max enjoyment ;).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Worth every star, would be a contender for Scotland’s best single pitch E2 if it didn’t have a ledge at 2/3rds. Do as a single pitch for max enjoyment ;).

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Guidebooks for Creag Dubh (Newtonmore)

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High E3
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High E1
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Votes cast 14
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 11
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Decadent Days

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Tollie Crag)

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