Rockfax Description
45m. A fine and intimidating climb, steep, sustained and initially serious. Now climbed more direct than the original line. Start at a boulder below some rust-coloured rock, left of the crack of Inbred. Ascend to a ledge (two slings on spikes), then continue direct up the bulging wall past a prominent peg runner to enter a small groove. Climb direct into a small niche and move up through a bulge to another niche, then traverse left with a slight rise to cross The Final Solution and continue left to a slight niche. Now on easier but still very steep ground, climb fairly directly up the wall (joining Outspan and later Inbred) until moves left gain the abseil tree.
FA K.Spence, J.Porteous, Sep 1966 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at some rust-coloured rock above the big flat boulder. Climb up directly past a poor peg (bold) to a small groove, and continue into a small niche. Either head right to the big triangular niche of Inbred to belay, or even better, move left and slightly down to another niche then more or less directly up the wall to join the final section of Inbred, giving a sustained 45m pitch.
Update May 2019: The crucial peg is bent and suspicious.
Kenny Spence & John Porteous Sep/1967.
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Highland Outcrops South *** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Trad , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Garbh Bheinn)