UKC

9m.

Rockfax Description
The left side of the slab trending right, is a grade easier for the tall. Fortunately the final break takes runners. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Mortlock 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Peak District Grit Graded List , Grit solos hvs -e3 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Dale Berry 4 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A fall before getting the gear in the break wouldn't be pretty, and the finnish is not as easy as some make out. Regardless of the grade though its certainly a worthwhile route.
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βeta: A fall before getting the gear in the break wouldn't be pretty, and the finnish is not as easy as some make out. Regardless of the grade though its certainly a worthwhile route.
Oli 25 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E1, my arse...
βeta?
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βeta: E1, my arse...
Oli 15 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found the hardest bit standing up on the good holds, but i think i may have been a bit far left for that section as had to mantle, not rockover. The top bit is not very hard, but the gear is comforting...
βeta?
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βeta: I found the hardest bit standing up on the good holds, but i think i may have been a bit far left for that section as had to mantle, not rockover. The top bit is not very hard, but the gear is comforting...
Si dH 21 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Im only 5ft11 but struggled a lot to reach the good hold, had to move a few feet right then just got it - this was definitely harder htan acually climbing up once Id got it. The top-out is no more tha n5a.
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βeta: Im only 5ft11 but struggled a lot to reach the good hold, had to move a few feet right then just got it - this was definitely harder htan acually climbing up once Id got it. The top-out is no more tha n5a.
Duz Walker 14 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 5 feet and 10 inches, HVS at most, one semi bold move to the break then laced with cams a plenty. Can have your tea before making the next move at max 5a. Having said all that, great route and it says E2 in the book so I'll take that!
βeta?
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βeta: 5 feet and 10 inches, HVS at most, one semi bold move to the break then laced with cams a plenty. Can have your tea before making the next move at max 5a. Having said all that, great route and it says E2 in the book so I'll take that!
Dale Berry 7 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Currently has a wasp nest in the bank at the base of the arete.
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βeta: Currently has a wasp nest in the bank at the base of the arete.
alan moore 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A very scary stand up to reach a rubbish hold and an elbow shaking reach for the break. The rest is OK. (Five eleven and three quarters).
βeta?
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βeta: A very scary stand up to reach a rubbish hold and an elbow shaking reach for the break. The rest is OK. (Five eleven and three quarters).
Robc 19 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: E2 5b did it ages ago on my first time at curbar never been 5c unless your reallty short and im only 5'7"
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βeta: E2 5b did it ages ago on my first time at curbar never been 5c unless your reallty short and im only 5'7"
Mattyk 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: On jamiemoss's suggestion (above) i led this as my 1st E2 ( bare in mind i have only ever done 3 E1's) this climb is about HVS.. i'm 6ft tall but the break takes as many cams as you can carry and the top move is a boulder problem (peak 5b) (yorkshire 5a) Nice though.. and i still claim an E2
βeta?
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βeta: On jamiemoss's suggestion (above) i led this as my 1st E2 ( bare in mind i have only ever done 3 E1's) this climb is about HVS.. i'm 6ft tall but the break takes as many cams as you can carry and the top move is a boulder problem (peak 5b) (yorkshire 5a) Nice though.. and i still claim an E2
Horse 21 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Following the discussion in the forums I had a go at this one, as an onsight solo. I can't believe this is less than E2 if you are of average (or less than) stature. Exciting solo even with the distant cushions!
βeta?
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βeta: Following the discussion in the forums I had a go at this one, as an onsight solo. I can't believe this is less than E2 if you are of average (or less than) stature. Exciting solo even with the distant cushions!
Chris the Tall 9 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Long reach may help you reach the hold below the break, but isn't the next move the crux? I don't know as this is where I fell off and will have to wait until the broken bone in my foot has healed ! Not be to underestimated
βeta?
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βeta: Long reach may help you reach the hold below the break, but isn't the next move the crux? I don't know as this is where I fell off and will have to wait until the broken bone in my foot has healed ! Not be to underestimated

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 172
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 177
Votes cast 155
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Orang-outang

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage North)

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