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11m.

Rockfax Description
Classic grit HVS. A jamming crack leads to a bridged rest, take a big breath and layback to glory. The big chockstone can be lassoed from below by cowboys. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1955.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si dH 21 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The bridged rest is awkward and still tiring. The next mov to reach the hold below hte upper crack i found quite tough and the move to get established in the upper crack from there a bit awkward. The layback itself was something of a path, but still solid HVS - a bit of a pumpfest all-round.
βeta?
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βeta: The bridged rest is awkward and still tiring. The next mov to reach the hold below hte upper crack i found quite tough and the move to get established in the upper crack from there a bit awkward. The layback itself was something of a path, but still solid HVS - a bit of a pumpfest all-round.
JWB 28 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first HVS (been climbing 9 months), I placed 2 bits of gear and to be honest found it easy. I think strength and stamina are the keys with a bold confident approach. John
βeta?
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βeta: This was my first HVS (been climbing 9 months), I placed 2 bits of gear and to be honest found it easy. I think strength and stamina are the keys with a bold confident approach. John
Dave Walker 1 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hmmm, dunno `bout this one, seems easy enough, but I suspect its easier with only one piece of pro, so long as you don`t want it back! Solo the top with EXTREME layback or fight the chocked crack if you` re daft enough!
βeta?
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βeta: Hmmm, dunno `bout this one, seems easy enough, but I suspect its easier with only one piece of pro, so long as you don`t want it back! Solo the top with EXTREME layback or fight the chocked crack if you` re daft enough!
Duz Walker 20 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A useless menagerie of old gear in the depths of the upper crack. Make this seem easy the Walker way - do peapod first. Not reassured? Good. Tricky exit not so for the tall reaching over the teapot chock to a sinker or for the short finding a three finger pocket left of the coffee pot chock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A useless menagerie of old gear in the depths of the upper crack. Make this seem easy the Walker way - do peapod first. Not reassured? Good. Tricky exit not so for the tall reaching over the teapot chock to a sinker or for the short finding a three finger pocket left of the coffee pot chock.
Ropeboy 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good warm-up for the cracks. The layback feels bold but is okay once you get going. A tricky exit.
βeta?
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βeta: A good warm-up for the cracks. The layback feels bold but is okay once you get going. A tricky exit.
Neil Morbey 18 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nice start and an intimidating finish. Just get started laybacking- it soon eases.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice start and an intimidating finish. Just get started laybacking- it soon eases.
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: If you fancy your chances as a cowboy/girl, then make sure you take a long enough sling! 4ft was just too short to get around the block.
βeta?
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βeta: If you fancy your chances as a cowboy/girl, then make sure you take a long enough sling! 4ft was just too short to get around the block.
Mark S Davies 18 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: nice gentle warm up
βeta?
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βeta: nice gentle warm up

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 177
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 173
Votes cast 156
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Eliminator

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)