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10m.

Rockfax Description
Classic grit E1. The leaning groove is awkward and insecure. At the bulge (high wire and/or big cam in the notch) leap onto the left arete and crank like a man possessed to finish or flounder with a flourish. Alternatively, ignore the photogenic jug dangle, and pull straight up into the groove. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown (some tension) 1957.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Memorable Climbs, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Joe Brown Curbar Routes, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si dH 29 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off.
Pythonist 14 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left).
The old James turnbull 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure.
Ropeboy 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds.
Swirly 29 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too.
Short&Savage 7 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: In response to D Berry: Yep, did think the No. 3 placement was a bit dodge at the time, being a tad bit undercammed. But since I don't own a 3.5, thought I'll carry on anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In response to D Berry: Yep, did think the No. 3 placement was a bit dodge at the time, being a tad bit undercammed. But since I don't own a 3.5, thought I'll carry on anyway.
Short&Savage 3 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 171
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 163
Votes cast 153
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

George

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dovedale)