UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The superb hanging groove is best approached directly up the steep and awkward crack below it, although it is often accessed via the wall to the left. Gear in the back of the groove is hard to place (offsets?), especially for the short. Once suitably protected bridge-a-way to glory. The gear in the groove is often pre-place reducing the commitment and possibly the grade. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Hard Grit history , World Graded List , UK Extreme Corners , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , 50 of the Best , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Winter Grit ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Boy 27 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think you are deliberately ignoring one of the fundamental playoffs in climbing Martin. The would be ascentionist must decide between hard with small fall or easier with bigger scarier fall, also the doubtfulness of the placements is part of the character and grade of the climb.
Show beta
βeta: I think you are deliberately ignoring one of the fundamental playoffs in climbing Martin. The would be ascentionist must decide between hard with small fall or easier with bigger scarier fall, also the doubtfulness of the placements is part of the character and grade of the climb.
Frank the Husky 5 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: preplacing the wire in the obvious slot presents two problems: 1) it'll wear away an already worn placement and 2) it fills a vital hold that makes a hard move even harder. if you're going to preplace a wire anyway, you might as well place one higher (that's totally bombproof) with a long sling. no change on protection, big change on ease of climbing...
Show beta
βeta: preplacing the wire in the obvious slot presents two problems: 1) it'll wear away an already worn placement and 2) it fills a vital hold that makes a hard move even harder. if you're going to preplace a wire anyway, you might as well place one higher (that's totally bombproof) with a long sling. no change on protection, big change on ease of climbing...

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 20
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Strangler

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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