Rockfax Description
The superb hanging groove in the arete is best approached directly up the steep and awkward crack below it, although those impatient individuals who can't wait to get at the main event, often climb the wall to the left. Gear in the back of the groove is hard to place (offsets?), especially for the short. Once suitably protected bridge-a-way to glory making suitable use of the left-hand arete. Many pre-place the gear in the groove on abseil which reduces the commitment and possibly the grade. © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1975.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, World Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, On Peak Rock, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Boy | 27 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think you are deliberately ignoring one of the fundamental playoffs in climbing Martin. The would be ascentionist must decide between hard with small fall or easier with bigger scarier fall, also the doubtfulness of the placements is part of the character and grade of the climb. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I think you are deliberately ignoring one of the fundamental playoffs in climbing Martin. The would be ascentionist must decide between hard with small fall or easier with bigger scarier fall, also the doubtfulness of the placements is part of the character and grade of the climb. |
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| Frank the Husky | 5 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: preplacing the wire in the obvious slot presents two problems: 1) it'll wear away an already worn placement and 2) it fills a vital hold that makes a hard move even harder. if you're going to preplace a wire anyway, you might as well place one higher (that's totally bombproof) with a long sling. no change on protection, big change on ease of climbing... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: preplacing the wire in the obvious slot presents two problems: 1) it'll wear away an already worn placement and 2) it fills a vital hold that makes a hard move even harder. if you're going to preplace a wire anyway, you might as well place one higher (that's totally bombproof) with a long sling. no change on protection, big change on ease of climbing... |
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Logged Ascents
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Wee Doris
Grade: E4 5c ***(Stoney Middleton)