One of the classic, must-do routes of the UK, but not a route to be underestimated. Although never desperate, the route finding is testing. Scramble up rightwards to below and left of a triangular overhang which is below a grassy terrace.
1) 4a, 25m. Follow the well-travelled slab up to a ledge at 10m. Walk 5m left and climb a short corner for 3m and move right across a slab, round a rib and up to a stance on a pulpit.
2) 4b, 25m. Follow the tricky rightward-leaning gangway to a chimney groove, climb this for a few metres, often damp, then walk left on a ledge to and belay below a blunt arete overlooking the large gully.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb the arete then head diagonally right to a large triangular ledge in a corner.
4) 4b, 25m. The big pitch, which is a little loose in places. Drop down a little way, then climb up the pinnacle on the left. From the top of the pinnacle, step left onto the steep wall. Pull up into a niche and head round the corner on the left to gain a steep arete. Follow this until it is possible to step left across the chimney and belay below cracks leading to the upper slab.
5) 4a, 25m. The out-there slab. Climb a cracked groove then step across left, passing a broken chimney, to gain the base of a big slab that overlooks the large gully. Climb the centre of the slab then trend left to the exposed left edge. Finish up this in a magnificent position to a belay in a recess.
6) 30m. Climb direct to a ledge, either finish here and escape rightwards, or tackle one of the cracks above to the top. © Rockfax
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