UKC

140m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic, must-do routes of the UK, but not one to be underestimated. Although never desperate, the route finding is testing. Scramble up rightwards to below and left of a triangular overhang which is below a grassy terrace.
1) 4a, 20m. Follow the well-travelled slab up and left to a ledge at 10m. Climb a short corner for 3m and move right across a slab, round a rib and up to a stance on a pulpit.
2) 4b, 25m. Follow the tricky rightward-leaning gangway to a chimney groove, climb this for a few metres, often damp, then traverse left on a ledge to reach a corner and blunt arete overlooking the large gully.
3) 4a, 15m. Climb the blunt arete and move diagonally right to the left-hand end of a large triangular ledge in a corner.
4) 4b, 20m. The big pitch, which is a little loose in places. Drop down a little way, then climb up the pinnacle on the left. From the top of the pinnacle, step left onto the steep wall. Pull up into a niche and head round the corner on the left to gain a steep arete. Follow this until it is possible to step left across the chimney and gain a short slab.
5) 4a, 25m. The out-there slab. Move up to an overhang, then step across left, passing a broken chimney to gain the base of a big slab that overlooks the large gully. Climb the exposed left edge of the slab on good holds to a stance.
6) 30m. Climb leftwards to a ledge, follow the slab on the right then scramble up easy ground to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , Ultimate HS ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , High Quality Adventure routes , Snowdonia in Chains , Libby Peter's HS Hit List , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Michelle's crack ticklist , The Long Routes , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , Mountain Rock , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , 2020/21 Trips , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Trad Warrior 2021 , 2021 , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Wales Multipitch , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , Ash and Krisz's September Adventure , Llidberis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , HS-HVS adventures , Ben's Trad Ticklist , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jesus_C 8 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This wall requires at least two days of dry weather after a rain. We were there after 10 hours of dry weather and wind and the wall reaming soaking wet.
βeta?
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βeta: This wall requires at least two days of dry weather after a rain. We were there after 10 hours of dry weather and wind and the wall reaming soaking wet.
Meleri Law 1 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Some big loose rocks to watch out for
βeta?
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βeta: Some big loose rocks to watch out for
aj_carter 29 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Unsure as with others on the start of the route. Rockfax picture suggests the curving left side slab, which I did indeed end up climbing and found to be VS at least (there is a stuck nut you can clip but protection is scarce). Once at the ledge above this there is clearly a much more agreeable slab to the right of this one, more underneath the triangle as others suggest. It's not visible however from the base of the curving slab (which now gives the impression of also being quite travelled).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unsure as with others on the start of the route. Rockfax picture suggests the curving left side slab, which I did indeed end up climbing and found to be VS at least (there is a stuck nut you can clip but protection is scarce). Once at the ledge above this there is clearly a much more agreeable slab to the right of this one, more underneath the triangle as others suggest. It's not visible however from the base of the curving slab (which now gives the impression of also being quite travelled).
Smiglesmith1 18 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd stance -someone has been a kind bastard and took a shit at the stance.
Show beta
βeta: 3rd stance -someone has been a kind bastard and took a shit at the stance.
cahil91 9 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Started as described in the Ground Up guide, ended up pulling a block off the initial wall and hit the deck. Not convinced this start is correct, didn’t feel HS 4a
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βeta: Started as described in the Ground Up guide, ended up pulling a block off the initial wall and hit the deck. Not convinced this start is correct, didn’t feel HS 4a
Josh Bratchley 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The Rockfax guide says follow the well-travelled slab to start P1 but so many people go wrong this is fairly misleading. It seems many people start too far left and low, at the top of the scree. This is not the start and becomes quite bold! Continue up and right further towards the triangular overhang before starting off.
Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax guide says follow the well-travelled slab to start P1 but so many people go wrong this is fairly misleading. It seems many people start too far left and low, at the top of the scree. This is not the start and becomes quite bold! Continue up and right further towards the triangular overhang before starting off.
Merlin 4 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook description for pitch 1 is misleading; the route begins 20m up from where you’re tempted to begin gearing-up. On pitch 1 keep right through the broken corner, coming left when the line of jugs and overhang forces you back left across the slab. The rest of the line is easy to follow, and excellent juggy climbing throughout.
Show beta
βeta: The guidebook description for pitch 1 is misleading; the route begins 20m up from where you’re tempted to begin gearing-up. On pitch 1 keep right through the broken corner, coming left when the line of jugs and overhang forces you back left across the slab. The rest of the line is easy to follow, and excellent juggy climbing throughout.
subdir 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I’d love to be able to give clear indications re start but can’t. But I think it is almost underneath the triangular overhang, although it looks vegetated. I started 7-8 mt to the left and ended up in serious trouble
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I’d love to be able to give clear indications re start but can’t. But I think it is almost underneath the triangular overhang, although it looks vegetated. I started 7-8 mt to the left and ended up in serious trouble

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 188
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 176
Votes cast 189
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Creagh Dhu Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))

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