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Climbs 49
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 195m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

This quarry is part of the vast workings opposite Stoney crag and is situated between Goddards Quarry and Hidden Quarry. It has three developed sections that offer a variety of climbing and aspect.
The Sunny Wall has a set of pleasant slabby routes that are sheltered and quick-drying. The Shady Wall is much steeper, seeps badly and gets no sun. The Balcony is higher up in the trees and has a series of relatively poor short routes.

Approach notes

From Stoney Middleton village drive west and park in the layby just beyond the right turn to Eyam (as for Stoney West). Walk back along the road and turn south (right) onto a bridleway. Follow this up to gates between two quarries. This point can also be reached by going over the gate by the parking and following the road directly up to the gates. Cross the gate into the main quarry and walk around to the right to the Sunny Wall. The Shady Wall is on the opposite side, further into the quarry and has a large tree at its top.
For the Balcony, go directly past the buildings on the left when you enter the quarry and continue down a track into a smaller lower quarry. Go across this to a bridleway sign on the far corner. Follow this up hill then break out left up a steep and slippery path which leads through the trees to the walls.

Access Advice

A large limestone quarry where access is unclear.

Planning Permission has been granted for the use of the quarry by a film crew during Spring 2021, so it is likely that access will not be possible for a time here.

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Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Rudely and aggressively refused access and told restrictions have been put back further. We only approach them to ask a simple question.
sishaw - 27/Jul/21
Politely refused access by security yesterday. He reckoned that access will not be restored until June.
roger whetton - 12/Apr/21
As most of these routes on the White Stripes walls haven't had very many ascents there's still a bit of loose rock, so helmets advised for leaders and belayers.
cragtyke - 22/Aug/19
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Climbs at this crag

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