18m.
Rockfax Description
A slightly harder right-hand variation of Couch to 8a. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follow couch to the first break step right and via thin moves climb the wall above.
Dominic Lee Aug/2018.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PeaksJambo | 9 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: First 7b+, two practices on top rop, didn't expect to lead it but Fi sent Ct8a so I had to jump on the send train. See beta to the break from Ct8a, add a long sling to the 4th bolt to help with rope drag. Note - I climbed this with the 3rd draw in. Rest at the break, cross over with the left hand to a crimp, up and right crimp then with high feet big move up and left to the top of the ear. At the next break use the good jug and the right hand side pull. Crimps both sides, I went left and took the crimp with back 3, wide left crimp. At one of these sequences just bump quickly to the break with the left hand. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: First 7b+, two practices on top rop, didn't expect to lead it but Fi sent Ct8a so I had to jump on the send train. See beta to the break from Ct8a, add a long sling to the 4th bolt to help with rope drag. Note - I climbed this with the 3rd draw in. Rest at the break, cross over with the left hand to a crimp, up and right crimp then with high feet big move up and left to the top of the ear. At the next break use the good jug and the right hand side pull. Crimps both sides, I went left and took the crimp with back 3, wide left crimp. At one of these sequences just bump quickly to the break with the left hand. |
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| Ian Patterson | 29 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did this via a slightly eliminate way doing the crux of Couch and then staying right on the two crimps with a move direct up to the break between the 2 bolts so no traverse. Definitely eliminate but felt natural since I was doing Couch the right hand way. Also found the moves from the break quite hard despite the good rest so felt a bit harder than Couch and worth 7b+ for me. Not sure if all that makes sense but felt worthwhile and something to do while I try to get strong enough to do the start of Ant Lion! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Did this via a slightly eliminate way doing the crux of Couch and then staying right on the two crimps with a move direct up to the break between the 2 bolts so no traverse. Definitely eliminate but felt natural since I was doing Couch the right hand way. Also found the moves from the break quite hard despite the good rest so felt a bit harder than Couch and worth 7b+ for me. Not sure if all that makes sense but felt worthwhile and something to do while I try to get strong enough to do the start of Ant Lion! |
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Route of Interest
Sardine
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Raven Tor (Miller's Dale))