Rockfax Description
70m. Climbs a rather blank and intimidating wall.
1. 30m 6a Go up the wall just right of the arĂȘte to a faint diagonal line running right. Follow it to near its end, then pull over a bulge and gain a hairline which leads to a small overlap. Over this, then step right to reach a large flat hold (just left of the crux of The Black Streak). Go direct up a blank slab to an impasse below an isolated overlap. Go diagonally left (crux) and up a thin crack and up to belay as for Route One.
2. 40m 6a Climb left from the ledge along a quartz line to reach a tiny flake. Climb up with trepidation to join Northumberland Wall at the left end of its overlap. Climb the cracks above as for Northumberland Wall.
FA K.Howett, C.Thomson, 10 Jun 1987 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bloody amazing slab climbing right of Northumberland Wall, weaving right along a seam, straight up on better holds to easier ground before a bold minimalist crux back left to join NW unto the belay ledge. P2 takes the boundary of black and white rock to join NW at the break. Take the usual micro-gear.
Kev Howett & Cath Thomson 10/Jun/1987.
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Sevs Power list of Justice , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Trad , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Carnmore Crag)