UKC

52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The easiest of the three E1s, but no push-over. The route can be split in two at the girdle ledge, but is best enjoyed as one of the finest 50m pitches in Wales.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb the slab up and left to reach the base of the wide crack. Enter the steep wide crack and follow this to reach a good resting ledge at 18m. Climb direct to the Girdle Ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. Step right and follow the crack to easier climbing on the arete.
2a) The Grim Jim Finish, E2 5b, 15m. Fire up the crack directly above the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular and celebrated route that has not suffered overly with polish and is protected well throughout. P1 5b Starting from the trees, move up right for a few metres before stepping left to the base of the crack/chimney. Move up (a long way!) on good holds that only falter slightly at the crux, to the left of the main crack. Belay at the Girdle Ledge in a fantastic position. P2 4c From the belay, step right to wide crack. Follow this to its top, step right around the arete and follow the incuts to the top and a tree belay in 'The Valley'.

J Brown D Whillans 30/Sep/1951.

Ticklists

Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, Darrencabowabo,s hit list, World Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Get out on Rock, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, CUMC Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, 2016 Targets, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Billg's 2017 sweepstake list, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Caelan visits, Hobo Unicorn Essentials, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad, Michelle's crack ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, University of Exeter must tick's, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, North Wales HVS, Definitive *** Llanberis, The E1 UK Roadtrip, Target Routes 2019/2020, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, May Trip Target List, 2020/21 Trips, Hard Rock & Other Classics, So you think you’re a VS climber?, 2020/21 Goals, 31 By 31, 2021 Ticklist, 2021, N Wales 2021, Summer 2021, North Wales!!

Feedback

User Date Notes
pauline_chester 1 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Did the traditional, easier finish, all in one 50m pitch. No shortage of gear and amazing holds, the start is a little intimidating as you have to move leftwards around the arete and not much protection. Some short-lived steep sections but you can climb quickly through these to get to good rests. There was at least one wobbly hold on the arete, probably at the Girdle Ledge, around the point where you have to decide whether to go direct up Grim Jim finish, or go off right for the easier finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the traditional, easier finish, all in one 50m pitch. No shortage of gear and amazing holds, the start is a little intimidating as you have to move leftwards around the arete and not much protection. Some short-lived steep sections but you can climb quickly through these to get to good rests. There was at least one wobbly hold on the arete, probably at the Girdle Ledge, around the point where you have to decide whether to go direct up Grim Jim finish, or go off right for the easier finish.
ClimbingAlex 2 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 50m ropes will just get you to the top in one mega pitch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m ropes will just get you to the top in one mega pitch!
Maynard 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fairly large loose block just above the girdle ledge. Wedged in at the moment but would be wary of yarding on it. Good holds around it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fairly large loose block just above the girdle ledge. Wedged in at the moment but would be wary of yarding on it. Good holds around it.
Ellis Bird 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Grim Jim Finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Grim Jim Finish
Sean Kelly Jul, 1987 Show βeta
βeta: I got the main pitch with Al doing the top bit. Great gear but save a little finger power for getting up to the Girdle Ledge. The stump of the old holly provided a runner! Repeated with John Hyde in about 1992, again leading the main pitch. I would like to runout in one but my rope would need to be longer. Then again, the belay is one of the most exposed in Wales and fabulous viewpoint to watch all the other epics in progress! A truly great climb!
Show beta
βeta: I got the main pitch with Al doing the top bit. Great gear but save a little finger power for getting up to the Girdle Ledge. The stump of the old holly provided a runner! Repeated with John Hyde in about 1992, again leading the main pitch. I would like to runout in one but my rope would need to be longer. Then again, the belay is one of the most exposed in Wales and fabulous viewpoint to watch all the other epics in progress! A truly great climb!

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Super Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)
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