UKC

52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The easiest of the three E1s, but no push-over. The route can be split in two at the Girdle Ledge, but is best enjoyed as one of the finest 50m pitches in Wales.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb the slab up and left to reach the base of the wide crack. Enter the steep wide crack and follow this to reach a good resting ledge at 18m. Climb direct to the Girdle Ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. Step right and follow the crack to easier climbing on the arete.
2a) The Grim Jim Finish, E2 5b, 15m. Fire up the crack directly above the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular and celebrated route that has not suffered overly with polish and is protected well throughout. P1 5b Starting from the trees, move up right for a few metres before stepping left to the base of the crack/chimney. Move up (a long way!) on good holds that only falter slightly at the crux, to the left of the main crack. Belay at the Girdle Ledge in a fantastic position. P2 4c From the belay, step right to wide crack. Follow this to its top, step right around the arete and follow the incuts to the top and a tree belay in 'The Valley'.

J Brown D Whillans 30/Sep/1951.

Ticklists

Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , World Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Get out on Rock , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , 2016 Targets , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Caelan visits , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Michelle's crack ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , University of Exeter must tick's , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales HVS , Definitive *** Llanberis , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , May Trip Target List , 2020/21 Trips , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 33 By 33 , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , N Wales 2021 , Summer 2021 , Big Pitches , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Wales Trip - 2022 , R&T , Year 2 ticklist , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales To Do List , Llidberis , Multipitches , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , Routes for MCI , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 26 May Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, one of my favourites ever. Great to tick such a classic. Wobbly block on the belay after P1 as many have said.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route, one of my favourites ever. Great to tick such a classic. Wobbly block on the belay after P1 as many have said.
John Cuthbert 31 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Not the first time on this rodeo (it first took be for a ride in April 1988), but this wizened bronco still has a buck or too. Recalling from a sadly less and less reliable memory, I had expected a delightful jugfest, and, of course, jugs there are aplenty, but the mind had forgotten the sustained steepness and the noodle had erased too the sheer oddness of a move or two. It's good to know that such character remains, for wear and tear there is aplenty. I wonder how it would shape up in 2058 , which would another 35 year gap...
Show beta
βeta: Not the first time on this rodeo (it first took be for a ride in April 1988), but this wizened bronco still has a buck or too. Recalling from a sadly less and less reliable memory, I had expected a delightful jugfest, and, of course, jugs there are aplenty, but the mind had forgotten the sustained steepness and the noodle had erased too the sheer oddness of a move or two. It's good to know that such character remains, for wear and tear there is aplenty. I wonder how it would shape up in 2058 , which would another 35 year gap...
Simonroberts1985 28 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Did in one long pitch, great climbing on good holds, just don't hang around on the steep sections!
Show beta
βeta: Did in one long pitch, great climbing on good holds, just don't hang around on the steep sections!
Steve Bartle 26 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The flake at the belay ledge should be treated with care. There is other gear though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flake at the belay ledge should be treated with care. There is other gear though
Maoweee 15 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: If doing as two pitches beware of the large loose pilar just above the girdle ledge. Not sure if this is the traditional belay but felt very wobbly so opted for a few wires in the crack above it.
Show beta
βeta: If doing as two pitches beware of the large loose pilar just above the girdle ledge. Not sure if this is the traditional belay but felt very wobbly so opted for a few wires in the crack above it.
Tall Oak 1 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route to calm the nerves after Cenotaph
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route to calm the nerves after Cenotaph
dynoseb 20 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Done in one pitch with two 60m half ropes, an absolute gem and good warm up for Grond. Found rests pretty much the whole way up, slightly pumpy in places but if you just keep moving through those bits it\'s very short lived. A few nut placements looked bomber but had a loose wobbly block on one side of it, probably fine but I didn\'t end up placing anything in them but did pull on them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Done in one pitch with two 60m half ropes, an absolute gem and good warm up for Grond. Found rests pretty much the whole way up, slightly pumpy in places but if you just keep moving through those bits it's very short lived. A few nut placements looked bomber but had a loose wobbly block on one side of it, probably fine but I didn't end up placing anything in them but did pull on them.
Gwinn512 28 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Linking pitches on 50m ropes, I could just about reach the small boulder at the top, but the belay tree was just out of reach (~2m missing).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Linking pitches on 50m ropes, I could just about reach the small boulder at the top, but the belay tree was just out of reach (~2m missing).
paulinepavlova 1 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Did the traditional, easier finish, all in one 50m pitch. No shortage of gear and amazing holds, the start is a little intimidating as you have to move leftwards around the arete and not much protection. Some short-lived steep sections but you can climb quickly through these to get to good rests. There was at least one wobbly hold on the arete, probably at the Girdle Ledge, around the point where you have to decide whether to go direct up Grim Jim finish, or go off right for the easier finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the traditional, easier finish, all in one 50m pitch. No shortage of gear and amazing holds, the start is a little intimidating as you have to move leftwards around the arete and not much protection. Some short-lived steep sections but you can climb quickly through these to get to good rests. There was at least one wobbly hold on the arete, probably at the Girdle Ledge, around the point where you have to decide whether to go direct up Grim Jim finish, or go off right for the easier finish.
ClimbingAlex 2 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 50m ropes will just get you to the top in one mega pitch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m ropes will just get you to the top in one mega pitch!
Maynard 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fairly large loose block just above the girdle ledge. Wedged in at the moment but would be wary of yarding on it. Good holds around it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fairly large loose block just above the girdle ledge. Wedged in at the moment but would be wary of yarding on it. Good holds around it.
Ellis Bird 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Grim Jim Finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Grim Jim Finish
Sean Kelly Jul, 1987 Show βeta
βeta: I got the main pitch with Al doing the top bit. Great gear but save a little finger power for getting up to the Girdle Ledge. The stump of the old holly provided a runner! Repeated with John Hyde in about 1992, again leading the main pitch. I would like to runout in one but my rope would need to be longer. Then again, the belay is one of the most exposed in Wales and fabulous viewpoint to watch all the other epics in progress! A truly great climb!
Show beta
βeta: I got the main pitch with Al doing the top bit. Great gear but save a little finger power for getting up to the Girdle Ledge. The stump of the old holly provided a runner! Repeated with John Hyde in about 1992, again leading the main pitch. I would like to runout in one but my rope would need to be longer. Then again, the belay is one of the most exposed in Wales and fabulous viewpoint to watch all the other epics in progress! A truly great climb!

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High E2
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Mid E1
Low E1
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Mid HVS
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Votes cast 344
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 327
Votes cast 319
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Plum

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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