UKC Logbook - 'Cemetery Gates'

52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The easiest of the three E1s, but no push-over. The route can be split in two at the Girdle Ledge, but is best enjoyed as one of the finest 50m pitches in Wales.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb the slab up and left to reach the base of the wide crack. Enter the steep wide crack and follow this to reach a good resting ledge at 18m. Climb direct to the Girdle Ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. Step right and follow the crack to easier climbing on the arete.
2a) The Grim Jim Finish, E2 5b, 15m. Fire up the crack directly above the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular and celebrated route that has not suffered overly with polish and is protected well throughout. P1 5b Starting from the trees, move up right for a few metres before stepping left to the base of the crack/chimney. Move up (a long way!) on good holds that only falter slightly at the crux, to the left of the main crack. Belay at the Girdle Ledge in a fantastic position. P2 4c From the belay, step right to wide crack. Follow this to its top, step right around the arete and follow the incuts to the top and a tree belay in 'The Valley'.

J Brown D Whillans 30/Sep/1951.

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User	Date		Notes
John Cuthbert	31 May	Show βeta βeta: Not the first time on this rodeo (it first took be for a ride in April 1988), but this wizened bronco still has a buck or too. Recalling from a sadly less and less reliable memory, I had expected a delightful jugfest, and, of course, jugs there are aplenty, but the mind had forgotten the sustained steepness and the noodle had erased too the sheer oddness of a move or two. It's good to know that such character remains, for wear and tear there is aplenty. I wonder how it would shape up in 2058 , which would another 35 year gap...
Show beta βeta: Not the first time on this rodeo (it first took be for a ride in April 1988), but this wizened bronco still has a buck or too. Recalling from a sadly less and less reliable memory, I had expected a delightful jugfest, and, of course, jugs there are aplenty, but the mind had forgotten the sustained steepness and the noodle had erased too the sheer oddness of a move or two. It's good to know that such character remains, for wear and tear there is aplenty. I wonder how it would shape up in 2058 , which would another 35 year gap...
Simonroberts1985	28 May	Show βeta βeta: Did in one long pitch, great climbing on good holds, just don't hang around on the steep sections!
Show beta βeta: Did in one long pitch, great climbing on good holds, just don't hang around on the steep sections!
Steve Bartle	26 May	Show βeta βeta: The flake at the belay ledge should be treated with care. There is other gear though	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The flake at the belay ledge should be treated with care. There is other gear though
Maoweee	15 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: If doing as two pitches beware of the large loose pilar just above the girdle ledge. Not sure if this is the traditional belay but felt very wobbly so opted for a few wires in the crack above it.
Show beta βeta: If doing as two pitches beware of the large loose pilar just above the girdle ledge. Not sure if this is the traditional belay but felt very wobbly so opted for a few wires in the crack above it.
Tall Oak	1 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Nice route to calm the nerves after Cenotaph	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Nice route to calm the nerves after Cenotaph
dynoseb	20 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Done in one pitch with two 60m half ropes, an absolute gem and good warm up for Grond. Found rests pretty much the whole way up, slightly pumpy in places but if you just keep moving through those bits it\'s very short lived. A few nut placements looked bomber but had a loose wobbly block on one side of it, probably fine but I didn\'t end up placing anything in them but did pull on them.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Done in one pitch with two 60m half ropes, an absolute gem and good warm up for Grond. Found rests pretty much the whole way up, slightly pumpy in places but if you just keep moving through those bits it's very short lived. A few nut placements looked bomber but had a loose wobbly block on one side of it, probably fine but I didn't end up placing anything in them but did pull on them.
Gwinn512	28 Mar, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Linking pitches on 50m ropes, I could just about reach the small boulder at the top, but the belay tree was just out of reach (~2m missing).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Linking pitches on 50m ropes, I could just about reach the small boulder at the top, but the belay tree was just out of reach (~2m missing).
paulinepavlova	1 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Did the traditional, easier finish, all in one 50m pitch. No shortage of gear and amazing holds, the start is a little intimidating as you have to move leftwards around the arete and not much protection. Some short-lived steep sections but you can climb quickly through these to get to good rests. There was at least one wobbly hold on the arete, probably at the Girdle Ledge, around the point where you have to decide whether to go direct up Grim Jim finish, or go off right for the easier finish.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Did the traditional, easier finish, all in one 50m pitch. No shortage of gear and amazing holds, the start is a little intimidating as you have to move leftwards around the arete and not much protection. Some short-lived steep sections but you can climb quickly through these to get to good rests. There was at least one wobbly hold on the arete, probably at the Girdle Ledge, around the point where you have to decide whether to go direct up Grim Jim finish, or go off right for the easier finish.
ClimbingAlex	2 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: 50m ropes will just get you to the top in one mega pitch!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 50m ropes will just get you to the top in one mega pitch!
Maynard	15 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Fairly large loose block just above the girdle ledge. Wedged in at the moment but would be wary of yarding on it. Good holds around it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fairly large loose block just above the girdle ledge. Wedged in at the moment but would be wary of yarding on it. Good holds around it.
Ellis Bird	25 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Grim Jim Finish	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Grim Jim Finish
Sean Kelly	Jul, 1987	Show βeta βeta: I got the main pitch with Al doing the top bit. Great gear but save a little finger power for getting up to the Girdle Ledge. The stump of the old holly provided a runner! Repeated with John Hyde in about 1992, again leading the main pitch. I would like to runout in one but my rope would need to be longer. Then again, the belay is one of the most exposed in Wales and fabulous viewpoint to watch all the other epics in progress! A truly great climb!
Show beta βeta: I got the main pitch with Al doing the top bit. Great gear but save a little finger power for getting up to the Girdle Ledge. The stump of the old holly provided a runner! Repeated with John Hyde in about 1992, again leading the main pitch. I would like to runout in one but my rope would need to be longer. Then again, the belay is one of the most exposed in Wales and fabulous viewpoint to watch all the other epics in progress! A truly great climb!