UKC

87m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag.
1) 20m. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.
2) 20m. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.
3) 5m. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).
4) 15m. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.
5) 15m. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.
6) 15m. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived!
Descend the main gully to the right. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , A grand easy welsh day out , North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , 2016 Targets , Flying Buttress Ticklist , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , High Quality Adventure routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , 2018 Goals , The Long Routes , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Cool Names , Definitive *** Llanberis , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Ticks without Lymes , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , Sarah’s N Wales Wishlist , Llidberis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , UWTSD Rock , Emlyn price outdoors, Routes in the spotlight , Ben's Trad Ticklist , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist , North Wales isnt just slate apparently , British Rock Tour April '24 , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
evanhod 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Warning, there is a loose flake/horn a few feet above the large belay boulder at the top of pitch 4 (on the right hand side). Looks inviting to use, but could do serious damage to anyone at the belay station, and it seems close to breaking off. Also, was just about possible to link pitches 1 + 2 as a party of three on a single 70m rope.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Warning, there is a loose flake/horn a few feet above the large belay boulder at the top of pitch 4 (on the right hand side). Looks inviting to use, but could do serious damage to anyone at the belay station, and it seems close to breaking off. Also, was just about possible to link pitches 1 + 2 as a party of three on a single 70m rope.
Jonnylad123 21 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quality on a classic route, in awesome positions for the arête
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quality on a classic route, in awesome positions for the arête
Professor_Professorson 26 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The chimney was not the best! Though there is a chockstone you can sling which would likely stop you from breaking your ankles if you popped out. There are also good jugs to yard up on once you're maybe a few feet off the ground. P4 - I found quite testing, rather exposed and the grassy crack was indeed very grassy, so no the best for - rock - climbing... (lol)
Show beta
βeta: The chimney was not the best! Though there is a chockstone you can sling which would likely stop you from breaking your ankles if you popped out. There are also good jugs to yard up on once you're maybe a few feet off the ground. P4 - I found quite testing, rather exposed and the grassy crack was indeed very grassy, so no the best for - rock - climbing... (lol)
G-walker89 18 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route, the accent up to the base of the crag is tiring but the reward outweighs that
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route, the accent up to the base of the crag is tiring but the reward outweighs that
Fraser kid 20 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: After the superb belay stance around the arete P4, there is a massive jug that is loose. Only noticed it when I arrange pro there and noticed it move outwards, very scary. It can be ignored by moving left slightly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After the superb belay stance around the arete P4, there is a massive jug that is loose. Only noticed it when I arrange pro there and noticed it move outwards, very scary. It can be ignored by moving left slightly.

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Votes cast 264
Votes cast 263
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hope

Grade: VD ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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