Rockfax Description
A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag. .
1) 20m. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.
2) 20m. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.
3) 5m. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).
4) 15m. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.
5) 15m. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.
6) 15m. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived!
Descend the main gully to the right. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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G-walker89 | 18 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Amazing route, the accent up to the base of the crag is tiring but the reward outweighs that | βeta? | |
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βeta: Amazing route, the accent up to the base of the crag is tiring but the reward outweighs that |
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Fraser kid | 20 May, 2019 |
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βeta: After the superb belay stance around the arete P4, there is a massive jug that is loose. Only noticed it when I arrange pro there and noticed it move outwards, very scary. It can be ignored by moving left slightly. | βeta? | |
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βeta: After the superb belay stance around the arete P4, there is a massive jug that is loose. Only noticed it when I arrange pro there and noticed it move outwards, very scary. It can be ignored by moving left slightly. |
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Grade: VD ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)