UKC Logbook - 'Sabre Cut'

55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Pass classic. The top pitch requires a love of wide cracks. Start at a corner by a small tree, 4m right of Dives/Better Things.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb the corner, then head right over vegetated ground to The Forest.
2) 4b, 25m. Follow the wide and sustained corner-crack to the top. Protection is a bit fiddly without very big cams, and the whole thing is awkward. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , UK Classic Corners , North wales road to ruins HVS , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Definitive *** Llanberis , North Wales Jam and Wide Cracks , Summer 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing , Tom's crack funtimes , Llidberis

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User	Date		Notes
Jones_88	3 May	Show βeta βeta: Nice route but not a pushover. All the gear and holds there if you look around for them.
Show beta βeta: Nice route but not a pushover. All the gear and holds there if you look around for them.
MGrock	21 Mar, 2022	Show βeta βeta: This would be terrifying without a big cam.
Show beta βeta: This would be terrifying without a big cam.
Fraser kid	24 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Led 2nd pitch after Megan did p1 of spiral stairs. Felt fine again. My big red cam was needed to shuffle up probably last third of climb. Would be huge run out without.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Led 2nd pitch after Megan did p1 of spiral stairs. Felt fine again. My big red cam was needed to shuffle up probably last third of climb. Would be huge run out without.
Pete_Frost	20 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Definitely take at least one large cam (Black Diamond 4, DMM Dragon 6) to push up ahead of yourself on the top crack. Then you'll enjoy the route. The inner crack has poor, flared placements at large intervals which probably wouldn't help much if you fell. Choose life: choose big cams.
Show beta βeta: Definitely take at least one large cam (Black Diamond 4, DMM Dragon 6) to push up ahead of yourself on the top crack. Then you'll enjoy the route. The inner crack has poor, flared placements at large intervals which probably wouldn't help much if you fell. Choose life: choose big cams.
brian watson	13 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: P2 does take normal gear but as previously mentioned, fiddlely to place, theres a small crack on the right wall inside the big crack.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: P2 does take normal gear but as previously mentioned, fiddlely to place, theres a small crack on the right wall inside the big crack.
Sparrowface	4 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Very large cams (e.g. Camelot size 4+) needed for the second pitch (in the wide crack).
Show beta βeta: Very large cams (e.g. Camelot size 4+) needed for the second pitch (in the wide crack).
Misha	1 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: P2 does have conventional gear but some is fiddly to place as it’s in a much smaller crack which is inside the main crack, on the right hand side - the placements are blind so require a lot of care. Yellow and big blue cams still needed for the start but anything bigger isn’t essential as long as you’re happy at the grade and style of climbing.
Show beta βeta: P2 does have conventional gear but some is fiddly to place as it’s in a much smaller crack which is inside the main crack, on the right hand side - the placements are blind so require a lot of care. Yellow and big blue cams still needed for the start but anything bigger isn’t essential as long as you’re happy at the grade and style of climbing.
Liz.Morrison	3 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Wide parallel crack on second pitch requires a size 6 cam, not much protection without. 2 large cams works best, shimmying the first one up the first pitch to a construction with no gear. Then above that climb place the next can a metre or two above the hollow that interrupts the crack: careful it's slightly too narrow for the cam to close to the base, climb a little bit higher before you try the cam. Shift the cam up as you go- good luck!
Show beta βeta: Wide parallel crack on second pitch requires a size 6 cam, not much protection without. 2 large cams works best, shimmying the first one up the first pitch to a construction with no gear. Then above that climb place the next can a metre or two above the hollow that interrupts the crack: careful it's slightly too narrow for the cam to close to the base, climb a little bit higher before you try the cam. Shift the cam up as you go- good luck!