UKC

84m.

Rockfax Description
This wonderful adventure spirals across some impressive terrain but it is not a good route for complete novices to second.
1) 34m. Some solo this pitch but it is better led if you are climbing at this grade. Scramble up over ledges - if you can't almost see yourself in the polish of the holds then you are off route! This leads to a grass terrace that heads leftwards up towards the base of Left Wall. Climb the slab leading up and belay below Left Wall. This gives you a good view of your mate doing the traverse.
2) 20m. From the base of the sloping ledge under Cenotaph Corner, climb polished flakes up and then leftwards until an airy step down (small threads to protect the second) reaches a ledge on the arete. From here move left and up to reach the ledge known as The Forest - usually a congested belay stance.
3) 22m. Move out left to below the final hanging corner of Dives/Better Things and go up left to the steep crack. Pull up this to a ledge and climb the easier slab on the left to a sloping belay.
4) 25m. The wide crack gives access to an easy slab. Walk along this and ascend a large groove on the right to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , 2016 Targets , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welcome to CUMC , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , 2018 Goals , University of Exeter must tick's , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , 2023 Must dos , Llidberis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ben's Trad Ticklist , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do!

Feedback

User Date Notes
Professor_Professorson 26 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P2 are pretty exposed. Wouldn't choose as a first VD lead
βeta?
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βeta: P1 and P2 are pretty exposed. Wouldn't choose as a first VD lead
mrkebabdriver 8 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Somewhat exposed. Perhaps a tad absolutely terrifying.
βeta?
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βeta: Somewhat exposed. Perhaps a tad absolutely terrifying.

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Votes cast 120
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lockwood's Chimney

Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)

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