Rockfax Description
The better of the two E1s, Nexus is an absolute classic and is a good stern test for any aspiring E1 leader. The rock is superb throughout.
1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. A long, sustained and superb pitch. Follow the slab just right of the large corner to the roof. Hand traverse leftwards under the roof to the corner. A bold move out to the arete gains a thread before pulling round the roof via the good layback-crack and gain the diagonal ramp. Follow this up and right to gain a sloping ledge on the right. Follow the short crack to a shallow groove - all quite technical and demanding - to a good stance just right of the huge roof (junction with Ten Degrees North).
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab on the right until the angle steepens, then move left onto a ledge. From the left end of the ledge traverse left along a horizontal break (tricky) to a swing round the arete. Belay in the scoop below a detached block on P3 of Plexus.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one. © Rockfax


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User Date Notes
treesrockice 21 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Death block near end of P2 needs clearing!
Show beta
βeta: Death block near end of P2 needs clearing!

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 89
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 87
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Grooves

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))

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