Rockfax Description
Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now a slightly bolder affair.
1) 20m. Climb easily up a short groove to a large ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards and move up to a stance under the clean groove.
2) 5a, 20m. Follow the groove above to a bulge, pull over this and step right onto the clean slab. Climb the crack on the left until a traverse leftwards to the arete is possible. Continue to a good belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Move up and right to the narrowest part of the capping roof. Turn the beefy roof and balance leftward into the corner. Move up, then traverse right onto a technical slab and continue to a ledge and perched block. Pass the block to gain a scoop, leave the scoop on its right side and continue diagonally left to a good stance.
4) 4b, 15m. Follow the line of least resistance up the final slabs. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Note: P2 and P3 are more like 40m each


Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, Ingle Routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis, N Wales 2021


User Date Notes
Annaproffitt 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Walk over to the gully if your ropes aren’t at least 60m
Show beta
βeta: Walk over to the gully if your ropes aren’t at least 60m

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 86
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 75
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Groove

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Llech Ddu (Black Slab))
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