A great route on amazing rock, although not that popular. 1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.2) 5c, 35m. Move up the slab as for Nexus. At the roof, make a dramatic move through the overlap into a groove. Follow this up and right to an airy perch on an arete. Take the groove up and move out left to reach the end of a small roof. A tricky traverse right below this leads to a good flake. Follow this up and then trend left as the angle eases to the belay at the end of the roof.3) 5c, 35m. Head up the slab on the right as for Nexus and follow it to a collection of pegs at a steepening. Move left past these onto a ledge. Move up the slab above to the roof and traverse delicately left across this to a peg and small wire. Make committing moves up and into the narrow groove. Climb this and the arete to a good hold and the end of the difficulties. Follow a line of weakness up and left and continue on diagonally to the abseil point. © Rockfax
Alex's Wales ticklist
Ultimate E3 ticklist
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach))
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