Rockfax Description
A great route on amazing rock, although not that popular.
1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.
2) 5c, 35m. Move up the slab as for Nexus. At the roof, make a dramatic move through the overlap into a groove. Follow this up and right to an airy perch on an arete. Take the groove up and move out left to reach the end of a small roof. A tricky traverse right below this leads to a good flake. Follow this up and then trend left as the angle eases to the belay at the end of the roof.
3) 5c, 35m. Head up the slab on the right as for Nexus and follow it to a collection of pegs at a steepening. Move left past these onto a ledge. Move up the slab above to the roof and traverse delicately left across this to a peg and small wire. Make committing moves up and into the narrow groove. Climb this and the arete to a good hold and the end of the difficulties. Follow a line of weakness up and left and continue on diagonally to the abseil point. © Rockfax


Alex's Wales ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist


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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach))

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