Rockfax Description
A nice varied route that covers some of the same ground as Coley Smoke but via a more direct version. Start at a large finger-shaped boulder at ground level, below a scooped boulder with three grooves in its top half.
1) N5, 25m. Climb the centre of the scoop and exit via the middle one of the three grooves. Continue up easy slabs to a spike belay below the main crack.
2) N5, 30m. Climb steeply up the jagged crack then, when the angle eases, step right into a left-slanting groove. Head up this as it steepens into a blind layback crack then, where this ends, step right and belay a little higher below some loose blocks.
3) N5+, 40m. Move left for 5m over the loose blocks (care needed) to gain the main corner. Follow this past a roof to where it steepens. Pass the steepening with difficulty then belay in the base of the chimney above and a junction with Coley Smoke.
4) to 6) N5. Finish up Coley Smoke. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| petecallaghan | 27 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook has two pitches numbered 4, so the total pitch tally is seven. The guide book topo shows the stance at the top of P4 much too low. Best to belay at the bottom of the amazing finger crack of P5 so the leader can reach the top of P5 on 60m ropes. The topo also shows the stance at the top of P6 too low. Belay 20m further on to allow the leader to reach the anchors at the top of P7 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The guidebook has two pitches numbered 4, so the total pitch tally is seven. The guide book topo shows the stance at the top of P4 much too low. Best to belay at the bottom of the amazing finger crack of P5 so the leader can reach the top of P5 on 60m ropes. The topo also shows the stance at the top of P6 too low. Belay 20m further on to allow the leader to reach the anchors at the top of P7 |
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| pete johnson | 16 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch lengths and overall route length are wrong in Rockfax. 295m to the abseil station at top of Bare Blabaer. 25m, 20m, 40m, 50m, 60m, 50m, 50m Entertaining route. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pitch lengths and overall route length are wrong in Rockfax. 295m to the abseil station at top of Bare Blabaer. 25m, 20m, 40m, 50m, 60m, 50m, 50m Entertaining route. |
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Forsida
Grade: n5+ ***
(Svolvær)