UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
Only a small independent section but worth a separate entry.
Climb the short wall to a good ledge (possible belay). Climb through the bulge then continue direct up the slab. Move left to the finish of Ten Craters.... © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dr Matt 30 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Building on from, but disagreeing in part with, the Feedback from Paul Sagar - I DID follow the original described line of Simeon straight up from the mid-way ledge to the ring-peg and continued onward straight up as per Simeon Direct, and certainly agree that the initial moves to and past the peg were harder than VS 4c. But it was doable, if reachy (I'm tall), very good, and combined with the 'Simeon Direct' section above and then the crux finish of Ten Craters made for a really good sustained and direct line at tough HVS 5a/b, though one of my 2nds, a better (and shorter) climber than me, thought maybe the whole combo was worth E1 5b. This certainly does IMO bump up the grade of the start of P2 of the normal Simeon, and the right trending part of that is becoming ivy-clad to boot.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Building on from, but disagreeing in part with, the Feedback from Paul Sagar - I DID follow the original described line of Simeon straight up from the mid-way ledge to the ring-peg and continued onward straight up as per Simeon Direct, and certainly agree that the initial moves to and past the peg were harder than VS 4c. But it was doable, if reachy (I'm tall), very good, and combined with the 'Simeon Direct' section above and then the crux finish of Ten Craters made for a really good sustained and direct line at tough HVS 5a/b, though one of my 2nds, a better (and shorter) climber than me, thought maybe the whole combo was worth E1 5b. This certainly does IMO bump up the grade of the start of P2 of the normal Simeon, and the right trending part of that is becoming ivy-clad to boot.
Paul Sagar 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: At the optional belay ledge, do NOT follow the line of Simeon through the bulge. Holds have gone on this section and it is now much, much harder than VS and even if the peg holds you will hit the ledge below (I did). Go up the start of Ten Craters and traverse over to do the HVS section of this, then finish up Ten Craters because the top of Simeon is smothered by the yew tree now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At the optional belay ledge, do NOT follow the line of Simeon through the bulge. Holds have gone on this section and it is now much, much harder than VS and even if the peg holds you will hit the ledge below (I did). Go up the start of Ten Craters and traverse over to do the HVS section of this, then finish up Ten Craters because the top of Simeon is smothered by the yew tree now.
Chris the Tall 13 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route on great holds, pretty logical line, as good as 10 craters and not much harder
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route on great holds, pretty logical line, as good as 10 craters and not much harder

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eliminator

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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