Rockfax Description
The long narrowing buttress is a gratifying climb packed with interesting climbing. The climb is slightly more difficult than in the past as a result of the loss of a large spike of rock high on the route. Start 2m left of the toe of the buttress at a crack.
1) 16m. Climb to a large block, then head up leftwards to a steep flake-crack that leads to a ledge and belay.
2) 13m. Move up a short wall and step left to a ledge. An easy low-angled corner gains a belay ledge with a large square flake resting on it.
3) 11m. Traverse 3m left and climb easily up right to a ledge and belay.
4) 23m. Climb up leftwards to the crest of the buttress and follow this to a small ledge and belay. Good hidden cracks just up and left of the belay.
5) 12m. Move up to the base of a slab and follow it rightwards to a belay on a ledge.
6) 16m. Traverse a crack leftwards to a pronounced fin of rock. Move left under the fin and make a difficult move up a crack to easier ground. Move up right to a belay at the start of a ramp.
7) 13m. Climb the ramp and pull up to a ledge. Traverse back left until a final move up gains the top. © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Dow's Classic Non-Extremes , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , The Long Routes , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lake District Multipitch Diff , Top 20 UK Diffs? , Jug My Pants , Stupid Rock , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stanley | 12 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Brilliant route, mostly very simple but enjoyable climbing with one noticeably harder (max 4a) move as noted by others on P6 with an apparently broken hold. | ||
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βeta: Brilliant route, mostly very simple but enjoyable climbing with one noticeably harder (max 4a) move as noted by others on P6 with an apparently broken hold. |
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Keggers | 15 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: P6 crux felt uncomfortable climbing solo, way harder move than anything else on the route, retreated & climbed the right side of the fin instead, which is far easier and more in keeping with the original Diff grade. | ||
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βeta: P6 crux felt uncomfortable climbing solo, way harder move than anything else on the route, retreated & climbed the right side of the fin instead, which is far easier and more in keeping with the original Diff grade. |
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LakesWinter | 13 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: There is a 0% chance that this is V Diff. What a load of rubbish. Its about as hard as Corvus, i.e Diff. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a 0% chance that this is V Diff. What a load of rubbish. Its about as hard as Corvus, i.e Diff. |
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liensiwel | 16 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: The prow pitch is harder without the flake (CLIMBED IT FROM THE RIGHT) and I'm 20 years older. Beaner climbed well and the weather was amazing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The prow pitch is harder without the flake (CLIMBED IT FROM THE RIGHT) and I'm 20 years older. Beaner climbed well and the weather was amazing. |
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C Witter | 12 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Which numpty upgraded this to VDiff? It's definitive Diff. If this isn't a Diff, then what on earth is? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Which numpty upgraded this to VDiff? It's definitive Diff. If this isn't a Diff, then what on earth is? |
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Martin Davies | 18 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Flake gone, mount the pinnacle and proceed above! | ||
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βeta: Flake gone, mount the pinnacle and proceed above! |
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colinai | 29 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Bit of trouble route finding around "the exposed flake" mentioned in the guide book - has this now gone? I thought I could see some wobbly remains | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bit of trouble route finding around "the exposed flake" mentioned in the guide book - has this now gone? I thought I could see some wobbly remains |
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Grade: VD ***
(Dow Crag)