The long narrowing buttress is a gratifying climb packed with interesting climbing. The climb is slightly more difficult than in the past as a result of the loss of a large spike of rock high on the route. Start 2m left of the toe of the buttress at a crack.
1) 16m. Climb to a large block, then head up leftwards to a steep flake-crack that leads to a ledge and belay.
2) 13m. Move up a short wall and step left to a ledge. An easy low-angled corner gains a belay ledge with a large square flake resting on it.
3) 11m. Traverse 3m left and climb easily up right to a ledge and belay.
4) 23m. Climb up leftwards to the crest of the buttress and follow this to a small ledge and belay. Good hidden cracks just up and left of the belay.
5) 12m. Move up to the base of a slab and follow it rightwards to a belay on a ledge.
6) 16m. Traverse a crack leftwards to a pronounced fin of rock. Move left under the fin and make a difficult move up a crack to easier ground. Move up right to a belay at the start of a ramp.
7) 13m. Climb the ramp and pull up to a ledge. Traverse back left until a final move up gains the top. © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Dow's Classic Non-Extremes, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, The Long Routes, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, Rock Stars Trad Routes
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