Rockfax Description
A tremendous expedition that ranks as one of the UK's best VSs. The climbing is varied and positions spectacular. Start on a raised ledge left of Great Gully.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb up the arete until it is possible to traverse left to a belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 4b, 20m. Head rightwards up a scoop and shallow grooves to below a corner/groove (ledge on right). Climb the corner/groove until a traverse right can be made to reach a stance and belay.
3) 4c, 12m. Make an exposed traverse left across a wall and ledge until moves around a rib gain a slab and belay below the large roof.
4) 4a, 12m. Head up the wide crack leftwards under the roof, then pull up to a recess and belay on blocks just above.
5) 4c, 16m. Move out right on a slab under a bulge to an open groove. Climb the groove that leads up to a belay on the traverse of Arete, Chimney and Crack.
6) 4b, 24m. Move left and climb a groove to below an overhang, then step right to a spike. Move up past the overhang and follow a groove/corner to easier ground and belays. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. © Rockfax
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Great VS Climbs in the Lake District , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , Dow's Classic Non-Extremes , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , 2016 Targets , High Quality Adventure routes , FRCC Mega Classics , Adventure ticklist 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , EUMC - Must do climbs , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Nuts of Legends , York University Students path to greatness , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , 2020/21 Trips , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , 33 By 33 , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dan’s Delights , Lake District , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Lakes ticklist , Ewans bug lakes ticklist , Cumbria for the Recreational User
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Grandmasterflash94 | 10 Sep |
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βeta: Got drowned and had to sacrifice two nuts, two quickdraws, a sling and a carabiner to safely descend the waterfall that was the first pitch, get in touch if the next climber fancies posting them! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Got drowned and had to sacrifice two nuts, two quickdraws, a sling and a carabiner to safely descend the waterfall that was the first pitch, get in touch if the next climber fancies posting them! |
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Brimham55 | 29 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: The first traverse is a one-move wonder if you go high and get the jug on the arete. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The first traverse is a one-move wonder if you go high and get the jug on the arete. |
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C Witter | 17 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: P.3 thread still there; small cam easier to place. | ||
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βeta: P.3 thread still there; small cam easier to place. |
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Tim Lowe | 14 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Excellent climbing and outstanding positions | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent climbing and outstanding positions |
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Martin Davies | 18 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Thin thread mentioned P3 gone. | ||
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βeta: Thin thread mentioned P3 gone. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gable Crag)