A tremendous expedition that ranks as one of the UK's best VSs. The climbing is varied and positions spectacular. Start on a raised ledge left of Great Gully.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb up the arete until it is possible to traverse left to a belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 4b, 20m. Head rightwards up a scoop and shallow grooves to below a corner/groove (ledge on right). Climb the corner/groove until a traverse right can be made to reach a stance and belay.
3) 4c, 12m. Make an exposed traverse left across a wall and ledge until moves around a rib gain a slab and belay below the large roof.
4) 4a, 12m. Head up the wide crack leftwards under the roof, then pull up to a recess and belay on blocks just above.
5) 4c, 16m. Move out right on a slab under a bulge to an open groove. Climb the groove that leads up to a belay on the traverse of Arete, Chimney and Crack.
6) 4b, 24m. Move left and climb a groove to below an overhang, then step right to a spike. Move up past the overhang and follow a groove/corner to easier ground and belays. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. © Rockfax
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