6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A tremendous expedition that ranks as one of the UK's best VSs. The climbing is varied and positions spectacular. Start on a raised ledge left of Great Gully.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb up the arete until it is possible to traverse left to a belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 4b, 20m. Head rightwards up a scoop and shallow grooves to below a corner/groove (ledge on right). Climb the corner/groove until a traverse right can be made to reach a stance and belay.
3) 4c, 12m. Make an exposed traverse left across a wall and ledge until moves around a rib gain a slab and belay below the large roof.
4) 4a, 12m. Head up the wide crack leftwards under the roof, then pull up to a recess and belay on blocks just above.
5) 4c, 16m. Move out right on a slab under a bulge to an open groove. Climb the groove that leads up to a belay on the traverse of Arete, Chimney and Crack.
6) 4b, 24m. Move left and climb a groove to below an overhang, then step right to a spike. Move up past the overhang and follow a groove/corner to easier ground and belays. Scrambling remains to gain the top of the buttress. © Rockfax


The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, Dow's Classic Non-Extremes, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, 2016 Targets, High Quality Adventure routes, FRCC Mega Classics, Adventure ticklist 2018, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, EUMC - Must do climbs, Libby Peter's VS Hit List, Nuts of Legends, York University Students path to greatness, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, 2020/21 Trips, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Lakeland VS Walking Tour, 30 By 30, Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock


User Date Notes
C Witter 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: P.3 thread still there; small cam easier to place.
Show beta
βeta: P.3 thread still there; small cam easier to place.
Tim Lowe 14 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing and outstanding positions
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing and outstanding positions
Martin Davies 18 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Thin thread mentioned P3 gone.
Show beta
βeta: Thin thread mentioned P3 gone.

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 142
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 137
Votes cast 139
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Murray's Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dow Crag)
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