UKC

Rockfax Description
Spectacular climbing that features an urgent crux move. Start at large flakes on a ledge to the left of Easy Terrace (this is the belay at the top of pitch 1 of Nimrod).
1) 6a, 32m. Climb the flared groove to a short rib where Genocide moves left up the thin crack. Make a series of difficult moves up right to a good hidden hold. Pull up to the base of a slabby wide corner. Climb the slab rightwards to below steeper ground (gear here), and make a tricky traverse left to a belay on Giant's Crawl.
2) 5b, 18m. Move up the corner and traverse left to a slabby corner/groove. Follow this rightwards to a grass ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 13m. Take the wide crack - hard to start - from the left-hand side of the ledge to top. Can be dirty. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Good E4s , Trad climbs for sport climbers , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Summer Ticklist , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The top two pitches are well worth doing and aren’t as dirty as they look, though they do need more traffic. Getting established in the crack on P3 is solid 5c. P3 tops out about 10m above the ab point on Nimrod (69s required) and it’s possible to down climb to it. However it’s just as quick to scramble out and come down the gully (we beat another team which was going across to the ab point just as we were going to the top).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top two pitches are well worth doing and aren’t as dirty as they look, though they do need more traffic. Getting established in the crack on P3 is solid 5c. P3 tops out about 10m above the ab point on Nimrod (69s required) and it’s possible to down climb to it. However it’s just as quick to scramble out and come down the gully (we beat another team which was going across to the ab point just as we were going to the top).
James Oswald 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Green walnut in RHS of crack protects crux really well. Bring extra small cams for top - I was missing the sizes I needed.
Show beta
βeta: Green walnut in RHS of crack protects crux really well. Bring extra small cams for top - I was missing the sizes I needed.

Logged Ascents

157 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dow Crag

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 45 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Moon Loon Connection

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

Loading Notifications...