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Rockfax Description
A distinguished classic that wends its way up the lower section of 'B' Buttress. Start at a wide V-groove just left of the Mountain Rescue box.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the V-groove and then head left across a difficult slab to below a corner. Move up and left to avoid an overhang, then continue to a stance and belay at the base of the large corner.
2) 10m. Traverse right past a large flake then up and around to a wide crack that leads to a cave belay.
3) 9m. Take a short steep crack on the left to a traverse line that leads to the corner and a belay.
4) 12m. Take the chimney on the left to a traverse line that heads left past a flake to a belay below a corner. An exposed pitch.
5) 20m. Climb the flake-crack on the right that leads into the corner. Climb the corner and groove above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1. Start just left of the rescue box. Go up the chimney and then traverse left across the polished slab. Continue to traverse and then head up to a belay when the angle eases.
2. Go up and slightly right heading for Abrahams cave. Belay in the cave
3. A long traverse - Go up the crack on the left of the cave then hand traverse across to the left into a corner. Go up the tricky chimney to the left of this and then another hand traverse to the left round a corner to a belay on a ledge
4. Go up to the right of the ledge, up a tricky crack and then easier rocks to the top. Decend down Easy Terrace

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Dow's Classic Non-Extremes, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, Lake District Classic Rock Challenge, A Lakeland Apprenticeship

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User Date Notes
1-2-3-40 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fairly polished in places
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Show beta
βeta: Fairly polished in places

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 91
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Oxford and Cambridge Direct Route

Grade: S 4a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))