UKC

2 pitches. Classic committing "wall" climbing that overhangs 3m in 30m. Pumpy with spaced but ultimately reasonable protection. From 4m up the ramp climb a right trending corner to jugs at the top. Make tricky moves to and from the break to get the death flake, up this exiting left onto a ramp leading to the upper ledge. Rest for half an hour and tackle the pocketed blank crack, exiting left to topout.

D. Cuthbertson, M. Duff, K. Johnstone 1980.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Highland Outcrops South *** , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Steve Richardson 25 Sep Show βeta
βeta: To increase safety factor at the start, place a high left size 7 keyed wire in quartz. It’s bomber and saves ankles when starting from the left.
Show beta
βeta: To increase safety factor at the start, place a high left size 7 keyed wire in quartz. It’s bomber and saves ankles when starting from the left.
J B Oughton 30 May Show βeta
βeta: The description of the start of the route in the 2020 Wired Guide appears to be incorrect and involves some very bold climbing until the first break (I couldn't find any gear at all). The correct line (as per other guides) is the more obvious line a couple of meters further right, which appears both better and better-protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The description of the start of the route in the 2020 Wired Guide appears to be incorrect and involves some very bold climbing until the first break (I couldn't find any gear at all). The correct line (as per other guides) is the more obvious line a couple of meters further right, which appears both better and better-protected.

Logged Ascents

81 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dunkeld, Cave Crag

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Swither Wa'

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Black Crag)

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