UKC

30m, 2 pitches. 1) 15m 4b. Start at the brown/black rocks 2 metres left of Coffin Corner and climb up to a big ledge where a belay may be arranged.
2) 15m 5b/lo lolc. Continue left towards the flying slab , overcome this (crux) and then continue up towards the left on big (sometimes wobbly) flakes.

M. Hamilton, A. Taylor 1976.

Feedback

User Date Notes
chigozie 24 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Leader: pay attention to leg/rope position at the crux. Bring a size 0 cam to back up the peg. Second: remove the peg as late as possible, big swing potential.
Show beta
βeta: Leader: pay attention to leg/rope position at the crux. Bring a size 0 cam to back up the peg. Second: remove the peg as late as possible, big swing potential.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ouzels of Fun

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Sma' Glen - Newton Spur Crags)

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