II, 200m. An Envers classic with sustained interest throughout. 1) 6a+. Climb a slab (bolt) to the right of a steep hand-crack (it is possible to climb the crack directly at 6b+, the first couple of jams being the crux). Gain the hand-crack from the right just above the first steep section and follow it as it widens to an off-width and leads to a ledge.2) 6a+. Go up the slabby nose above the belay to gain the steep layback crack which leads to a short, technical arête.3) 6a. Climb the wall to a broken looking, cracked steepening. Attack this via a steep wall and corner to belay just right of the impressive pancake flake.4) 6a+. A step left gains the pancake flake on the arête. Climb this then step left. Climb up until a step back right leads to a small roof with a finger crack. This can either be fridge-hugged direct (harder) or a technical step down and further right gains the finger crack.5) 5c. Continue up the crack in the corner passing some steep sections on large holds.6) 5c. A slabby summit block on the left leads to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: TD+ 6c ***
(Aiguille du Peigne)
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