UKC

Rockfax Description
III, 700m. A fantastic route leading to a superb summit, with mainly scrambling along the way. The descent does not go back to the start of the route, so carry boots, crampons etc. to the foot of the jammed block corner and leave them here to collect later. Start at the foot of a light-coloured slabby ramp.
1) 4c. Cross the bergschrund (usually easiest over to the right) and climb glacier-polished ramps to a terrace at the foot of a short corner. Climb this (4c) and step left onto easy ground.
2) Go diagonally up and left across easy broken ground to some slings around a block at the foot of a long, left-leaning chimney/corner with a jammed block halfway up. Climb this in two pitches (4c) and move out of the corner and climb easy slabs to a belay on a ledge with a large boulder.
3) 4b. Traverse horizontally left around a pillar and then go up a tricky looking (but actually easy) corner (3c) to reach the foot of the long, grey couloir leading up to the Aiguille de la République. Climb this via broken and low-angled ground (4b), initially on the right and then moving left, to reach a sweep of slabs.
4) 4b. Pass rightwards behind a small pillar and climb a short gully (4a) to a block at the top left end of a ramp. Downclimb the ramp rightwards (4b) to the foot of another gully, this one descending from the col which separates the summit towers of the République and the Grand Charmoz.
5) 4c. Climb the gully to 30m below the col and then move rightwards and head up broken slabs and corners (4c) to reach a long ledge with the famous 'obélisk' boulder at the start of it. Traverse this ledge, passing behind the obélisk, via some short sections of delicate slab climbing, to reach the foot of the summit tower's east ridge.
6) 5c. Climb two pitches (5b then 5c) up cracks just to the right of the ridge crest to a terrace strewn with boulders. Cross this easily to reach a bolted belay at the foot of the final slab.
7) The slab is aided by most climbers using the bolts - no aiding skills required, just the ability to pull on quickdraws! Apparently the slab can be freed at an extremely technical 6c+ but we were unable to find anyone who could confirm this grade. The summit is staggeringly exposed in all directions - enjoy it! © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Dreamz , Alpine Progression , Alps 22

Feedback

User Date Notes
lukegorman 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Beni freed the top pitch and confirmed it was around 6c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beni freed the top pitch and confirmed it was around 6c

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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
arête SE - voie Contamine

Grade: D+ 6a ***
(L'éveque)

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