UKC

Restricted Access

Eridge Rocks Nature Reserve Climbing Agreement 

The climbing restrictions on the main crag at Eridge Rocks have been lifted after agreement with Sussex Wildlife Trust and repair of the damage caused by climbers/ boulderers in 2020.

The revised agreement is shown in its entirety below. Please be aware that the areas where climbing is permitted has been reviewed  as below. Please note that the permitted and restricted areas shown in guidebooks no longer apply.. The permitted and restricted areas are marked by wooden posts, similar to those used to depict restrictions (such as bird bans) at other sensitive crags. If you observe climbers/boulderers in restricted areas or using chalk or a substitute, please point out the agreement and ask them to observe its conditions.

 

SWT - BMC Agreement:

1.The areas where climbing/bouldering is allowed will be reviewed by the SWT in consultation with the BMC every six years to coincide with the SWT’s bryophyte surveys.

2.The BMC will work with climbers and SWT to ensure guidelines are adhered to. 

3.SWT reserve the right to close climbing on site or on particular climbs if guidelines are not being followed causing damage to the reserve.

4.Under SWT supervision, the BMC are permitted to carry out shellac rock treatment to repair any damage to the rock surface caused by climbing on designated climbing routes. 

 

Climber/Boulderer Agreement:

As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following:

1.Climbing/bouldering is allowed from Close to You to Thin Layback, from Mosquito to More Cake for Me, from Yew Crack to Fandango and from Optical Racer to Portcullis inclusive. Climbing/bouldering outside these areas is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here (Note: discussions are still taking place as to the area between the car park and the A26 and for the time being this area will remain closed for climbing/bouldering).

2.Climbing/bouldering by organised groups is not permitted. 

3.Use of chalk or other substitutes is prohibited on all climbs/boulder-problems. 

4.On site signage will be followed indicting which climbs are open or closed, even if this contradicts with guidebook information.

5.Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds , take care only to remove loose sand and debris. 

6.The rock at the top of the block above the car park (Equilibrium Wall etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings).

9m.

Rockfax Description
A classic sandstone route. Climb the face using a series of distinctive flakes and pockets to finish left of the scoop. It is conditions dependent and green, but certainly delivers when dry. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Please do not use chalk on this climb - it is part of the access agreement...
Climb the vague scoop to the right of the arete.

Ticklists

Starred Southern Sandstone 6a's , Southern Sandstone *** Routes

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Guidebooks for Eridge Green Rocks

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High 7b
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Route of Interest
Finale

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Bowles Rocks)

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