UKC

Restricted Access

Eridge Rocks Nature Reserve Climbing Agreement 

The climbing restrictions on the main crag at Eridge Rocks have been lifted after agreement with Sussex Wildlife Trust and repair of the damage caused by climbers/ boulderers in 2020.

The revised agreement is shown in its entirety below. Please be aware that the areas where climbing is permitted has been reviewed  as below. Please note that the permitted and restricted areas shown in guidebooks no longer apply.. The permitted and restricted areas are marked by wooden posts, similar to those used to depict restrictions (such as bird bans) at other sensitive crags. If you observe climbers/boulderers in restricted areas or using chalk or a substitute, please point out the agreement and ask them to observe its conditions.

 

SWT - BMC Agreement:

1.The areas where climbing/bouldering is allowed will be reviewed by the SWT in consultation with the BMC every six years to coincide with the SWT’s bryophyte surveys.

2.The BMC will work with climbers and SWT to ensure guidelines are adhered to. 

3.SWT reserve the right to close climbing on site or on particular climbs if guidelines are not being followed causing damage to the reserve.

4.Under SWT supervision, the BMC are permitted to carry out shellac rock treatment to repair any damage to the rock surface caused by climbing on designated climbing routes. 

 

Climber/Boulderer Agreement:

As well as adhering to the Sandstone Code of Practice, please observe the following:

1.Climbing/bouldering is allowed from Close to You to Thin Layback, from Mosquito to More Cake for Me, from Yew Crack to Fandango and from Optical Racer to Portcullis inclusive. Climbing/bouldering outside these areas is forbidden. The area between Sandstorm and More Cake for Me is very sensitive, with many rare plants, so please be extra careful here (Note: discussions are still taking place as to the area between the car park and the A26 and for the time being this area will remain closed for climbing/bouldering).

2.Climbing/bouldering by organised groups is not permitted. 

3.Use of chalk or other substitutes is prohibited on all climbs/boulder-problems. 

4.On site signage will be followed indicting which climbs are open or closed, even if this contradicts with guidebook information.

5.Do not remove any greenery, whether vegetation or lower plants. When cleaning holds , take care only to remove loose sand and debris. 

6.The rock at the top of the block above the car park (Equilibrium Wall etc.) is extremely fragile and is scarred with deep rope-grooves. Please use a piece of old carpet to protect the rock from the belay rope (which is necessary as the trees are too far back for the use of slings).

Rockfax Description
Climb the lower wall past the bulge to take on the mighty twin flakes. Move left into the groove to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb fairly directly to the triangular 'shield'. Use both sides to reach the top.

Ticklists

Starred Southern Sandstone 6a's , Southern Sandstone *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
ChossChampion 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't go as a thin undercut pocket snapped on me just coming in to the head wall. Conditions were dry and the rock had a full day of sun before we tried it. Grade remains as there's a better more solid pocket slightly lower and right.
Show beta
βeta: Didn't go as a thin undercut pocket snapped on me just coming in to the head wall. Conditions were dry and the rock had a full day of sun before we tried it. Grade remains as there's a better more solid pocket slightly lower and right.

Logged Ascents

7 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Eridge Green Rocks

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 3 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moving Staircase

Grade: 7a ***
(High Rocks)

Loading Notifications...