Superb rock and moves that reward a confident approach. Climb to below staggered slim corners and follow these via some bold moves to an easing. Head leftwards to a groove (Hydra) and go up it for 2m before moving back right across the wall to a flat hold. Take the wall above to a crack/groove and follow this to a small overhang. Pull over and finish up a short wall and a belay. Abseil off or finish up Hydra. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Allegedly this is the best pitch at it's grade on the cliff. Given that there are only 2 E3's on the crag shouldn't detract.
1. 36m(5c) From the flake belay on Hydra climb up to some stepped grooves to a rest. Move diagonally left to the top of the Hydra groove. Go up about 2m and traverse right to a flat hold in the wall. Then go up via a groove and crack.
2. 18m(4b) Easy slab.
Martin and Bob Berzins 1977.
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