A long expedition that combines the best of two routes. The climbing is varied and builds to a spectacular upper section that takes on the exposed cracks and rib just left of the arete perched high on the face. Start at the large clean ledge gained via a steep scramble (roping up advised).
1) 4c, 30m. Above the left end of the ledge is the square chimney itself. Climb the chimney to a sloping ledge on its left. Traverse left across a slab to the corner and climb it to a small stance and belay.
2) 4c, 26m. Continue up the corner to a junction with Bridge's Route where it crosses the corner. Take the jamming crack above to easier ground in the gully. Continue up the gully then move right to a belay below the impressive left arete of the headwall.
3) 4c, 16m. Climb the middle of the crack/grooves above and then traverse up right to an airy stance and belay.
4) 4b, 28m. Take the groove above to a ledge and then move right and follow the edge of the crag to easier ground that leads to the top. © Rockfax
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