Rockfax Description
A long expedition that combines the best of two routes. The climbing is varied and builds to a spectacular upper section that takes on the exposed cracks and rib just left of the arete perched high on the face. Start at the large clean ledge gained via a steep scramble (roping up advised).
1) 4c, 30m. Above the left end of the ledge is the square chimney itself. Climb the chimney to a sloping ledge on its left. Traverse left across a slab to the corner and climb it to a small stance and belay.
2) 4c, 26m. Continue up the corner to a junction with Bridge's Route where it crosses the corner. Take the jamming crack above to easier ground in the gully. Continue up the gully then move right to a belay below the impressive left arete of the headwall.
3) 4c, 16m. Climb the middle of the crack/grooves above and then traverse up right to an airy stance and belay.
4) 4b, 28m. Take the groove above to a ledge and then move right and follow the edge of the crag to easier ground that leads to the top. © Rockfax


The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Jim Birkett First Ascents , UK Holiday Plans , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock


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Guidebooks for Esk Buttress (Dow Crag)

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eagle Front

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Eagle Crag (Buttermere))

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