UKC

12m. A bold eliminate just left of Halfway to Kansas. Holds and runners in the wide crack of that route and Bank Holiday Burial on the left ARE OUT at this grade! Start 1m left of the wide crack and climb directly up the slab to reach horizontal cracks at 7m (the first gear). Continue in the same line for a further 5m to a new twin-bolt abseil station.

FA. B.Mullan (solo) 14/Mar/2011.

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Fairy Cave Solo Circuit

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User Date Notes
AidanBoyce1 27 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Using new bolts at top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Using new bolts at top.
bpmclimb 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Installed a bolted belay/abseil station yesterday, to replace the dieback-affected ash sapling. Couple of points about some things in the logbook notes: the whole point of the route is to climb straight up the middle of the slab, without using holds or runners to either side. You can, of course, use a side runner in the corner to the left, but don't think you've climbed an E2! To those who think any gear is pointless and you might as well solo: that's entirely an option, of course, as with any route (it's what I did on the FA), but I'd be wary of making it a general recommendation - you might well get away with a slip in the first section if you stay upright and slide down, but a fall from above the cracks at 7m could be pretty serious.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Installed a bolted belay/abseil station yesterday, to replace the dieback-affected ash sapling. Couple of points about some things in the logbook notes: the whole point of the route is to climb straight up the middle of the slab, without using holds or runners to either side. You can, of course, use a side runner in the corner to the left, but don't think you've climbed an E2! To those who think any gear is pointless and you might as well solo: that's entirely an option, of course, as with any route (it's what I did on the FA), but I'd be wary of making it a general recommendation - you might well get away with a slip in the first section if you stay upright and slide down, but a fall from above the cracks at 7m could be pretty serious.
Paulos87 15 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rock is pretty flakey before the gear
Show beta
βeta: Rock is pretty flakey before the gear

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Four Steps to Heaven

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)

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