The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
Bold at the start. A fine left-to-right line that takes in the best of the harder climbing on the slab. Begin between the start of Smell the Glove and the edge of the slab. Climb boldly up the thin slab to reach and stand on a large concretion feature. Move right past Rob's Crack to join and follow Four Steps to Heaven to its easing at a horizontal crack. Traverse right to meet the line of Volume Eleven and then move right again and climb the wall past patches of concretion. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A quality climb, with a bold start, which takes a rightward-rising line across Rob's Slab. Climb the smooth slab just left of Rob's Crack to a good handhold at 4m and continue through a steeper area to a concretion. Gain a standing position on this and traverse rightwards across Rob's Crack; then move up on thin holds (the crux of Four Steps to Heaven) to a thin horizontal crack. Follow this rightwards to a good horizontal break (on Volume Eleven), step right again, and follow a line of concretions to the top.
FA. I.Butterworth, P.Clarke 27/Apr/2002.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 26 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Max smashed this out of the park! Great lead. Dead impressed as the start is VERY committing with no gear. Beautiful route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Max smashed this out of the park! Great lead. Dead impressed as the start is VERY committing with no gear. Beautiful route. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry))