UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.

Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.

Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:

  • Take all of your litter and any you find away with you to dispose of responsibly.
  • Responsible parking is essential to maintain access - see the 'parking and approach' section below for more information.
  • The only people with permission to be within the fenced area are cavers and climbers. If you find other people in the quarry please ask them to leave.
  • Parts of the quarry could be unstable and potentially dangerous for the unaware. In particular young or inexperienced climbers should be closely supervised at all times.
  • The quarry forms part of a larger SSSI and European SAC (Special Area of Conservation). Natural England are monitoring the rare flora and fauna within the quarry so avoid removing any vegetation without checking with the local Access Rep or Access Officer first.

Descents:

Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.

  • The best abseil descent (easier to pull through) from the Robs Crack area is from a pair of stakes with wire strops and maillon situated above Who Needs Hair Anyway i.e. next to the Hawthorn bush on the crag edge about 50m left (facing out) of Robs Crack.
  • A strop and maillon have been added to the stake above Halfway to Kansas/Lumbar Puncture, another above Balch's Slide and another above Senile Taff Corner to facilitate abseiling.
  • All routes in the Glacis area have lower offs in place.
  • The Alpine Ridge can be ascended/descended as a relatively easy but exposed scramble.
45m.

Rockfax Description
Bold at the start. A fine left-to-right line that takes in the best of the harder climbing on the slab. Begin between the start of Smell the Glove and the edge of the slab. Climb boldly up the thin slab to reach and stand on a large concretion feature. Move right past Rob's Crack to join and follow Four Steps to Heaven to its easing at a horizontal crack. Traverse right to meet the line of Volume Eleven and then move right again and climb the wall past patches of concretion. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A quality climb, with a bold start, which takes a rightward-rising line across Rob's Slab. Climb the smooth slab just left of Rob's Crack to a good handhold at 4m and continue through a steeper area to a concretion. Gain a standing position on this and traverse rightwards across Rob's Crack; then move up on thin holds (the crux of Four Steps to Heaven) to a thin horizontal crack. Follow this rightwards to a good horizontal break (on Volume Eleven), step right again, and follow a line of concretions to the top.

FA. I.Butterworth, P.Clarke 27/Apr/2002.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Max smashed this out of the park! Great lead. Dead impressed as the start is VERY committing with no gear. Beautiful route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Max smashed this out of the park! Great lead. Dead impressed as the start is VERY committing with no gear. Beautiful route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Fairy Cave Quarry

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Certain Surprise

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry))

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