UKC

Restricted Access

Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged!  The routes affected are also pretty poor!

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a  seasonal restriction "....  due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face.  As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’,  ‘Horus’,  and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".

The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT  that they  "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying". 

No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st. 

Rockfax Description
An interesting route with a hard crux. Boulder your way onto the ledge, arrange gear and make hard moves out left to a good rest on the arete. Finish easily up the crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
S Wales Climbing Wiki

Nick Taylor, John Allen 14/Sep/2018.

Feedback

User Date Notes
nickcanute 12 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route - bold, steep and technical. Start under the right side of the overhanging arete and make hard moves up and left to gain a crack high on the left side. Details in the 2020 supplement and the swc wiki
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route - bold, steep and technical. Start under the right side of the overhanging arete and make hard moves up and left to gain a crack high on the left side. Details in the 2020 supplement and the swc wiki

Logged Ascents

2 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 1 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 2
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Route of Interest
Crocodile Tears

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Tears Point)

Loading Notifications...