Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
The fine arete can be approached from the left or right. Once on the arete, sustained and technical moves lead to the horizontal break. Finish up the easier groove above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fierce route based on the left arête of the cave. Start at the base of the arête and either swing in from the left, or more logically climb thin cracks on its right side to gain a thin, pocketed crack on the arête itself. Move up and use some pockets on the left to gain flat holds higher on the arête, above which more hard moves lead to the horizontal break. Climb the groove and continue straight up to finish.
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Grade: E6 6c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)