Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
A good line up the very front of the buttress. Climb the slim left-facing corner just right of Combination to an easier-angled corner and follow it to the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete (large cam placement) and a juggy finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Take the slim narrow left-facing corner just right of Combination into the easier-angled corner and climb onto the headwall. Pull up to the wide crack of Combination left of the arete to a horizontal break. Using finger pockets move up and right onto the arete to a large Friend placement and a juggy finish.
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)