UKC

200m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular climb, which unfortunately means that queues are the norm rather than the exception. However the logical line, solid rock, bomber protection and excellent exposure combined with such an accessible grade make it well worth the wait. The grade can be lowered to IV+ by using the first two pitches of Delle Guide.
There are numerous possible starts to the route. The original is in a loose yellow gully on the left. Since the rock is quite shattered the more common starts are a corner just right of the gully (V-, recommended start as described below); a series of cracks a few metres further right (V+). The easiest start is further right below a ramp of grey rock (cemented belay ring, shared start with Delle Guide) bringing the full route grade down to IV+.
1) V-, 40m. Starting 8m right of the gully, climb a corner-crack then move left at the top to a cemented belay.
2) IV, 40m. Climb the face just left of the stance then follow moves slightly to the left towards a chimney. Climb this (easier on the outside or left) then exit the chimney to arrive below the arete proper. Continue up the face for a few metres to reach the arete the continue to a stance in a deep yellow niche
3) IV+, 30m. From the niche exit left of a slab. Move up for a few metres then left, aiming for a chimney crack. Climb this then make an exposed traverse right before following a large vertical crack to return to the arete. Possible intermediate belay to avoid rope drag before the traverse.
4) IV, 55m. Follow the arete (intermediate belay possible at 30m) to reach a ledge.
5) IV-, 30m. Continue direct from the ledge, keeping near but just left of the arete, to a stance on a small pulpit.
6) III, 40m. Climb direct then slightly left up easier ground to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cracking route - well protected - bolted belays, bolts/pegs on most hard moves. Reach the start from either the Passo de Falzarego (traverse along the old military road beneath the path up to the Piccolo Laguzoi) or from the cafe further down towards Cortina. The climb either follows the chimney (harder and a falling rock funnel) or the face (well bolted). It's just about posible to do the first two pitches in one (reaching the arete) on a 60m rope, better, in terms of rope drag, to split these.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Big Routes , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites easy multipitch

Feedback

User Date Notes
Hal Mungbean 26 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: For P1 after the left facing corner crack you only have to trend 1-2m left whilst mostly climbing directly upwards on juggy pillars then you will get to an obvious ledge with the six pegs. The loose gully left has a bolt in it but ignore this. P2 description above is accurate (unlike the one in 2014 Rockfax) but doesn’t mention you have to move up and rightwards around the arête after the chimney to gain the easy 10m slab to the cave (it’s a V big niche!) and two piton belay which isn’t visible from below. Continuing up the loose gully above the chimney would also reach the cave.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For P1 after the left facing corner crack you only have to trend 1-2m left whilst mostly climbing directly upwards on juggy pillars then you will get to an obvious ledge with the six pegs. The loose gully left has a bolt in it but ignore this. P2 description above is accurate (unlike the one in 2014 Rockfax) but doesn’t mention you have to move up and rightwards around the arête after the chimney to gain the easy 10m slab to the cave (it’s a V big niche!) and two piton belay which isn’t visible from below. Continuing up the loose gully above the chimney would also reach the cave.
HannahC 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1 belay is a nest of bolts. If you get to the gully without locating it look up and right and it’s on a slightly higher traverse line. We followed other descriptions described below for P2 and stayed on track!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 belay is a nest of bolts. If you get to the gully without locating it look up and right and it’s on a slightly higher traverse line. We followed other descriptions described below for P2 and stayed on track!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Comici/Northwest Corner

Grade: V- ***
(Punta Col de Varda)

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