Rockfax Description
Big Micheluzzi's little brother, this route is a superb climb with varied and enjoyable pitches and a fantastic traverse on sculpted holds at half-height. A classic of the face.
Start 10m left of the gully which splits the face, at the base of an easy ramp leading right.
1) III, 30m. Follow the series of ledges right (beware of seepage).
2) II, 15m. Continue right to a stance at the base of a chimney.
3) III+, 25m. Climb the chimney then move right to a vegetated clearing. Move left then direct up a series of gravel terraces and move behind a boulder to a ring belay.
4) II, 50m. Continue leftwards up a blocky and somewhat loose ramp, passing below a large crack to a stance on a good ledge.
5) III, 25m. Climb a narrow chimney before moving left over ledges. Move right again to a stance below a large grassy ramp on the left.
6) V-, 45. Ignore the grassy ramp and instead climb direct to a belay ring then traverse right on good holds. Continue more direct, still on excellent rock with plenty of gear before following the logical traverse right to a yellow niche. Belay on the right side of the cave. An excellent pitch.
7) IV, 30m. Exit the cave on the right, following the red arrow which points around the corner. Route finding becomes slightly harder here but follow the worn holds direct, then right for a few metres, before climbing direct again to another yellow cave (possible stance). Pass this and move left to the belay.
8) IV, 35m. Step left from the stance and move left to a series of chimney-cracks. Climb the middle of the three (although all three variants are possible) on good holds to reach the terraces below the Chamois Terrace. Belay in a small cave. © Rockfax

Micheluzzi, Rogers, Slocovich 14 Aug 1928

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

james1978 30/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
with Andrei
Alessandro Tentori 26/Aug/17 AltLd rpt
with Tommaso Regesta
jon_gill1 24/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with rosie hawker, chris Lyness
Hidden 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S
ripper 22/Aug/17 AltLd

Off route on p6, onto ground which felt more like V+ than V-, and had no visible means of protection for about 30 metres - which was interesting. No such problems on the supposedly hard-to-read p7, which was lovely. Overall a great route.

with matt c
Hidden ?/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/17 AltLd
JPSmith ?/Jul/17 AltLd
with Neil Palfrey
Alessandro Tentori 20/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with Tommaso Regesta
Dizz 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Martina
evhall 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic last few pitches - great exposure and some actual climbing - easy VS

with Tim Bray
kingjam 06/Jul/16 AltLd
james1978 22/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
trwolfe13 16/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Accidentally did the first pitch of Via Irma, then did two pitches of scrambling to get to the fourth pitch. Drastically missed the descent route and took a 10 pitch abseil down a long gully through caves and grottos.

cameron_hall 16/Sep/15 AltLd

The way up was fun, but we made a mess of the descent. Started up first pitch of Via Irma (lead) and then traversed across to Little Micheluzzi. I think I then led Ps 3,5,6,7,8, but I'm not quite sure I remember correctly.

Hidden 03/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/15 AltLd
TomGB 03/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

first 5 pitches ok, last 3 really nice. I led the last two.

with Vicki Cox, Stewart Moody
Hidden 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Maia
Gavdee1 09/Jul/15 AltLd
with Tony Johnson
tonevert 09/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Gavin
cpforbes ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori 30/May/15 2nd O/S
with Antonio Bonet
Mike Hood 03/Oct/14 AltLd
with Alex
Alex Munnery ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 29/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
budchawla 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Some occasional light rain, nothing to worry about - except for the last pitch which was full-on drenched. Gripping finish to an awesome route. First 4 pitches are dead easy, the next 4 offer excellent exposed, juggy climbing. Great route!

Jonathan Emett 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

lead 2,4,5,6,7, 4.5 hours on route.

with ben
benscarter 15/Sep/12 AltLd
pete johnson 09/Sep/12 -
pauldrew 09/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Marq 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
benscarter ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kaori Carter, Simon Forman
The Ivanator 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

The three steep pitches after the initial rambly stuff are really good, super juggy wall climbing in a fantastic setting. RH start.

with Jez
jezb1 24/Jul/12 AltLd

Very good route. Straight forward climbing on monster holds in great positions. Lead the best pitch which was the exit from the niche. Spicy walk across the top to get out!

Mike-W-99 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Minor epic after managing to start up Via Irma and doing a scary 50m abseil off of a rusty mallion. Route itself fine with the germans in front holding everyone up by belaying in strange places.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Very nice route with some good climbing particularly the last few pitches. If there are parties above you then stay well in the cave at the top of pitch 7 so as to avoid any stones that might get knocked down from the belay directly above. We initially started up Via Irma by mistake but in our defence both have 3 cracks at the start! Retreated from Via Irma and went from being first on the crag to last in the queue on the route. At least beng last meant we could get too lost...

with Mike
timofy 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Em66 ?/Jun/11 2nd
with Mat
AlanLittle ?/Jun/11 AltLd

Only as far as the big terrace

with Thomas Ulber
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
langar27 09/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 09/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
skeight88 ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Ben Alsford
Tarquin 29/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/10 AltLd
Rosie Hutchins 28/Jun/10 AltLd

lovely climb excepted for the slight E1 5b variation Chris climbed (slightly sandbagged by me) - the decent was a magnitude scarier than the climb!

with Chris Haynes, Rob Lillywhite
DKaye 28/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic! Scary walk-off to say the least, however!

with Marc Blackband
The Bad Cough 11/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Luca Prinoth
JGW ?/Jul/08 -
with Matt Tilley
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
John HW 06/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Great to revisit this climb.

with Gary Mason
Hidden 01/Sep/06 2nd
cem 02/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with Bryan Rynne
Hidden 28/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
John HW ?/May/02 AltLd O/S

The exposed exist from the little cave had my knees shaking.

with Cath
brianrunner ?/Jul/01 AltLd

a good intro route to the area.

with martina
NickJH ?/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Stefano Cavalieri, Andrea Tafi
tjekel ??/1987 -
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set