Rockfax Description
Big Micheluzzi's little brother, this route is a superb climb with varied and enjoyable pitches and a fantastic traverse on sculpted holds at half-height. A classic of the face.
Start 10m left of the gully which splits the face, at the base of an easy ramp leading right.
1) III, 30m. Follow the series of ledges right (beware of seepage).
2) II, 15m. Continue right to a stance at the base of a chimney.
3) III+, 25m. Climb the chimney then move right to a vegetated clearing. Move left then direct up a series of gravel terraces and move behind a boulder to a ring belay.
4) II, 50m. Continue leftwards up a blocky and somewhat loose ramp, passing below a large crack to a stance on a good ledge.
5) III, 25m. Climb a narrow chimney before moving left over ledges. Move right again to a stance below a large grassy ramp on the left.
6) V-, 45. Ignore the grassy ramp and instead climb direct to a belay ring then traverse right on good holds. Continue more direct, still on excellent rock with plenty of gear before following the logical traverse right to a yellow niche. Belay on the right side of the cave. An excellent pitch.
7) IV, 30m. Exit the cave on the right, following the red arrow which points around the corner. Route finding becomes slightly harder here but follow the worn holds direct, then right for a few metres, before climbing direct again to another yellow cave (possible stance). Pass this and move left to the belay.
8) IV, 35m. Step left from the stance and move left to a series of chimney-cracks. Climb the middle of the three (although all three variants are possible) on good holds to reach the terraces below the Chamois Terrace. Belay in a small cave. © Rockfax

Micheluzzi, Rogers, Slocovich 14 Aug 1928

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Martin Bennett 22 Sep -
with AlanB
with AlanB
Hidden 5 Sep Lead O/S
Matt Barker 24 Aug 2nd O/S
SophieWalker 15 Aug 2nd Brilliant but busy! Amazing flakes!
Brilliant but busy! Amazing flakes!
Tom Fullen 15 Aug AltLd O/S Jugs galore. At least after a few pitches of grass!
Jugs galore. At least after a few pitches of grass!
roym 15 Aug AltLd
EBeck 10 Aug AltLd O/S
PalfreyN 10 Aug AltLd
with EBeck
with EBeck
efrance24234 1 Aug Lead O/S Choss.
Choss.
jussiupn 7 Jun 2nd dog Jaska liidasi ja tultiin Saken kanssa kakkosina. Mulla pieni putoaminen suoraan Saken kypärään. Muuten meni hyvin. Tuo hankala ja vedestä liukas kohta jäi mieleen. Jaskan topo leijaili alas tuolla kp:lla. Kuuluikohan se mulle hankala paikka oikeasti reittiin?
with Paavo Kuosmanen, Jaakko Lehto
Jaska liidasi ja tultiin Saken kanssa kakkosina. Mulla pieni putoaminen suoraan Saken kypärään. Muuten meni hyvin. Tuo hankala ja vedestä liukas kohta jäi mieleen. Jaskan topo leijaili alas tuolla kp:lla. Kuuluikohan se mulle hankala paikka oikeasti reittiin?
with Paavo Kuosmanen, Jaakko Lehto
sblake 26 Sep, 2018 Lead
derekwwl 3 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Only pitches 6 and 7 were worthwhile we thought; the first half of the route was chossy with loose gravel and generally uninspiring. We didnt think it was worth 3 stars. Route reading becomes tricky the final 2 pitches - Rockfax wasn't useful on this route and is generally the case for dolomites - get a European guidebook instead. 60m ropes are required for this route. The descend follows a thin trail towards sella towers on a series of via ferrata and scrambling then 2 abseils. The abseils points weren't obvious if not for the Polish climbers. Again, don't rely on Rockfax.
Only pitches 6 and 7 were worthwhile we thought; the first half of the route was chossy with loose gravel and generally uninspiring. We didnt think it was worth 3 stars. Route reading becomes tricky the final 2 pitches - Rockfax wasn't useful on this route and is generally the case for dolomites - get a European guidebook instead. 60m ropes are required for this route. The descend follows a thin trail towards sella towers on a series of via ferrata and scrambling then 2 abseils. The abseils points weren't obvious if not for the Polish climbers. Again, don't rely on Rockfax.
AidanMorris 3 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Kate2017 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd
JoeGross 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Great route, high in the grade. Vertical walls, high exposure, medium belays, protection mostly by in situe pegs. Descent takes about 2 hours to walk off back to the layby at the base (only take 1 bag don't leave one at the base of the route).
Great route, high in the grade. Vertical walls, high exposure, medium belays, protection mostly by in situe pegs. Descent takes about 2 hours to walk off back to the layby at the base (only take 1 bag don't leave one at the base of the route).
NickST 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Phil Tucker
with Phil Tucker
peterbeaumont ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
Gawyllie 28 Jul, 2018 Lead
with john meechan
with john meechan
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
s.hunter ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
james1978 30 Aug, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Andrei
with Andrei
Alessandro Tentori 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
jon_gill1 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with rosie hawker, chris Lyness
with rosie hawker, chris Lyness
MikePycroft 23 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Last 3 pitches made up for the lose scrambling start. Easy descent but you do go a long way left
with Nathan
Last 3 pitches made up for the lose scrambling start. Easy descent but you do go a long way left
with Nathan
ripper 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd Off route on p6, onto ground which felt more like V+ than V-, and had no visible means of protection for about 30 metres - which was interesting. No such problems on the supposedly hard-to-read p7, which was lovely. Overall a great route.
with matt c
Off route on p6, onto ground which felt more like V+ than V-, and had no visible means of protection for about 30 metres - which was interesting. No such problems on the supposedly hard-to-read p7, which was lovely. Overall a great route.
with matt c
Hidden ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd
JPSmith ?Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Neil Palfrey
with Neil Palfrey
Alessandro Tentori 20 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
Dizz 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Martina
with Martina
evhall 18 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Fantastic last few pitches - great exposure and some actual climbing - easy VS
with Tim Bray
Fantastic last few pitches - great exposure and some actual climbing - easy VS
with Tim Bray
kingjam 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Matt Naylor
with Matt Naylor
james1978 22 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
trwolfe13 16 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Accidentally did the first pitch of Via Irma, then did two pitches of scrambling to get to the fourth pitch. Drastically missed the descent route and took a 10 pitch abseil down a long gully through caves and grottos.
Accidentally did the first pitch of Via Irma, then did two pitches of scrambling to get to the fourth pitch. Drastically missed the descent route and took a 10 pitch abseil down a long gully through caves and grottos.
cameron_hall 16 Sep, 2015 AltLd The way up was fun, but we made a mess of the descent. Started up first pitch of Via Irma (lead) and then traversed across to Little Micheluzzi. I think I then led Ps 3,5,6,7,8, but I'm not quite sure I remember correctly.
The way up was fun, but we made a mess of the descent. Started up first pitch of Via Irma (lead) and then traversed across to Little Micheluzzi. I think I then led Ps 3,5,6,7,8, but I'm not quite sure I remember correctly.
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd
TomGB 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S first 5 pitches ok, last 3 really nice. I led the last two.
with Lampy, Stewart Moody
first 5 pitches ok, last 3 really nice. I led the last two.
with Lampy, Stewart Moody
Maia 19 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S 5 pitches of approach, 3 good pitches of climbing- hot day!
5 pitches of approach, 3 good pitches of climbing- hot day!
Jim Slater 19 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Maia
with Maia
Gavdee1 9 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Tony Johnson
with Tony Johnson
tonevert 9 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Gavin
with Gavin
cpforbes ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori 30 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Antonio Bonet
with Antonio Bonet
Mike Hood 3 Oct, 2014 AltLd
Alex Munnery ?Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
jcw ??, 2014 -
Hidden 23 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 29 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
budchawla 18 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Some occasional light rain, nothing to worry about - except for the last pitch which was full-on drenched. Gripping finish to an awesome route. First 4 pitches are dead easy, the next 4 offer excellent exposed, juggy climbing. Great route!
with JRennie
Some occasional light rain, nothing to worry about - except for the last pitch which was full-on drenched. Gripping finish to an awesome route. First 4 pitches are dead easy, the next 4 offer excellent exposed, juggy climbing. Great route!
with JRennie
Jonathan Emett 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S lead 2,4,5,6,7, 4.5 hours on route.
lead 2,4,5,6,7, 4.5 hours on route.
benscarter 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd
pete johnson 9 Sep, 2012 -
pauldrew 9 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 AltLd
Marq 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
benscarter ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kaori Carter, Simon Forman
with Kaori Carter, Simon Forman
The Ivanator 24 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S The three steep pitches after the initial rambly stuff are really good, super juggy wall climbing in a fantastic setting. RH start.
with jezb1
The three steep pitches after the initial rambly stuff are really good, super juggy wall climbing in a fantastic setting. RH start.
with jezb1
jezb1 24 Jul, 2012 AltLd Very good route. Straight forward climbing on monster holds in great positions. Lead the best pitch which was the exit from the niche. Spicy walk across the top to get out!
Very good route. Straight forward climbing on monster holds in great positions. Lead the best pitch which was the exit from the niche. Spicy walk across the top to get out!
Hidden 12 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
timofy 17 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Em66 ?Jun, 2011 2nd
with Freg1
with Freg1
AlanLittle ?Jun, 2011 AltLd Only as far as the big terrace
with Thomas Ulber
Only as far as the big terrace
with Thomas Ulber
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
langar27 9 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 9 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
skeight88 ?Jul, 2010 2nd
with Ben Alsford
with Ben Alsford
Tarquin 29 Jun, 2010 Lead
Hidden 28 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Rosie Hutchins 28 Jun, 2010 AltLd lovely climb excepted for the slight E1 5b variation Chris climbed (slightly sandbagged by me) - the decent was a magnitude scarier than the climb!
with Chris Haynes, Rob L
lovely climb excepted for the slight E1 5b variation Chris climbed (slightly sandbagged by me) - the decent was a magnitude scarier than the climb!
with Chris Haynes, Rob L
DKaye 28 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Fantastic! Scary walk-off to say the least, however!
with Marc Blackband
Fantastic! Scary walk-off to say the least, however!
with Marc Blackband
The Bad Cough 11 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with John Nesbitt
with John Nesbitt
Hidden 5 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori ?Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Luca Prinoth
with Luca Prinoth
JGW ?Jul, 2008 -
with Matt Tilley
with Matt Tilley
KristianBirchall 24 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Claire Chadderton
with Claire Chadderton
Hidden ?Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
John HW 6 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S Great to revisit this climb.
with Gary Mason
Great to revisit this climb.
with Gary Mason
Hidden 1 Sep, 2006 2nd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2006 2nd
cem 2 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Bryan Rynne
with Bryan Rynne
Hidden 28 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S
John HW ?May, 2002 AltLd O/S The exposed exist from the little cave had my knees shaking.
with Cath
The exposed exist from the little cave had my knees shaking.
with Cath
brianrunner ?Jul, 2001 AltLd a good intro route to the area.
with martina
a good intro route to the area.
with martina
Iain Brown 4 Sep, 2000 -
with Dave
with Dave
NickJH ?Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
with JThomas
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson ??, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Stefano Cavalieri, Andrea Tafi
with Stefano Cavalieri, Andrea Tafi
tjekel ??, 1987 -
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set